Follow the main crack in the center of the buttress and stay left when possible. The around the belay tree is loose so be careful. If you stay right the climb is more difficult and harder to protect.
The route is in the center of the buttress to the right of the Hogwild route and left of Accessory Dogs. Follows the main crack up and to the left. It seems best to climb up and walk off.
pro to 3".
Sep 24, 2010
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
good climb but I'd say it's almost 5.8. I think supertopo has it as 5.6, but Carville has it right at 5.8. good pro.
Jun 16, 2012
I led both Hogwild and this climb yesterday. This climb is not as good as Hogwild, a bit mungy in places, and has somewhat tricky gear. For me the crux was about 50 feet off the ground. I found one or two places where only a hand jam provided a good handhold, but feet are mostly nice dikes, not much smearing or foot jamming needed. Lots of good rests from which to place gear. After the double cracks the route leads you to a bush that has two slings around it. We continued up to a total length of 170 feet to a very nice belay ledge with a tree behind it to sling. From there we went up and right to another tree (about 40 feet) with two slings as a rap station. Only do this with a 60 meter or longer rope. As you rap down, stay far left. It is a rope stretcher with a 60 meter to make it to the anchors of accessory dogs, which you can only see at the very end when you climb left over a flake. Frump there it is almost a full 30 meter to the ground.
|By Greg Gibson|
From: Napa, Ca
Jun 19, 2014
The last time I got on this route it sucked as it was early in the spring and things were full of dirt. I ended up bailing on the route as it was very chossy and I didn't trust my feet to be able to do the crux.
Definitly, one of the roughest 5.6 climbs I've ever been on.