Just A Sideline  5.10+ R

86 page views Good page?

Type:  Trad, 60 feet Consensus:  5.10+ [details] FA:  Steve Grossman,John Jurashek,'82 Submitted By:  1Eric Rhicard on Feb 16, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

Not sure why this never had an R rating. Twenty five feet to the first piece of gear and the crux move is close to 20 feet off the ground. Lots of potato chip flakes along the way force you to stay focused even on the easier ground. At the top there is no pro until the final move and is about 5.8 if you follow the seam until you can step left into the final crack. If you bust left 10 to 15 feet lower instead of following the seam it is easier.

SQ II says that it is easier at the top if you move right. Actually, and it is obvious, you move left to avoid the unprotectable seam that leads to the top.

Climbing is scary and the moves are not fun enough to warrant the risk of injury on this one.

Location 

Right angling seam that starts about 15 feet up and goes to the top.

Protection 

Gear to Yellow camalot. Some long runners help as you move right out of the main seam to a small roof.