|Upper Security Risk
This is the sweet arete on the left side of the alcove below "Plan B" and "Get Smart". Not stick-clipping the first bolt would give this route a solid R/X rating, as the climbing is thin, balancey, technical, and continuous right from the start above a jagged boulder landing. Letting go for the second and third clips requires delicate posturing in very strenuous positions. As an arete, it has the requisite blind moves around the corner. At the top, it kicks well past vertical with a huge reach to a match on a sloping jug. Don't be surprised if you don't flash this one - the sequence is solid, but inobvious. Quite entertaining, but definitely on the short side - at most half the height of "Plan B".
Four bolts to a two-bolt anchor with rings. Stick clip the first bolt or die.
Aug 18, 2008
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
R rating with out a stick clip.
Not too bad though. I do not think you will die if you botch it. From the fall anyways.