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Jupiter II 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 500', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
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Page Views: 2,224
Submitted By: blakeherrington on Apr 23, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Corner on Pitch 2

Description 

The setting is beautiful, the stone varnished, the gear is where you want it, and you'll probably have the wall to yourself. In the Spring of 2010 my partner and I found a straight-sided stopper stamped "VB" (Paul Van Bettten?) and a Forest Titon stamped "PH" on the route. Evidence of the climb's seldom-done status.

There are 5 pitches, one of which is below average, but the other 4 are exceptional. All belays are bolted.

P1 - Begin with some runout 5.8 or 5.9 up corners and grooves just left of the obvious dihedral line. Move right into the corners and chimney. Step right at the top. 5.9 or 5.10-

P2 - Work straight up from the belay on RPs and small gear. At ~50 feet, step left into a clean left-facing corner. Climb the corner (crux) on RPs and good small gear. 5.11c, but certainly harder than the .11c on Cloud Tower and Lev29

P3 - straight up from the belay on runout 5.9 face climbing, or slightly right and then up, which a couple RP placements. Aim for the bolt and face climb up and left (5.10d) to a thin crack. After the crack, move left around a large block and belay from bolts on top. 5.10d

P4 - Follow a vegetated low-angle crack or runout arete straight up, passing a band of lighter/sandier rock, to the huge ledge. 5.8

P5 - Up the clean and steep hand crack in the flaring corner on the right. The crack widens and becomes lower angle. As the rock suddenly deteriorates, move left across blocky terrain to the final anchor. 5.10

Rap the route with a single 60m rope. After 2 rappels on Jupiter II anchors, move slightly left and rappel nearby "Challenger".

Location 

Jupiter II begins halfway between the huge LF-Corner of "Steep Space" and the cracks of Challenger. It's the first obvious crack system left of the huge corner.

Protection 

2x cams from tips to hands, a single #2 and #3 BD. A good selection of nuts, RPs, or HB Offsets.


Photos of Jupiter II Slideshow Add Photo
Pitch 1, last dihedral section.
Pitch 1, last dihedral section.

Comments on Jupiter II Add Comment
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By John Roark
Feb 19, 2012

We did this route on feb. 18 2012 it's great.
The only warning I have is on the last rap down challenger we got our rope stuck 3 times on the thin crack near the top of the second pitch on Challenger benighting us. I swung to the right and placed 2 nuts as directionals for the pull to prevent the rope from running in the crack. After that the rope got stuck just slightly and we were able to pull hard enough to get it unstuck. The first time I unstuck our rope i was able to see the remnants of a rope in the same crack system that someone must have cut to get down.
To be honest I'm not sure if it would be better just rapping Jupiter2 with a 70m and down climbing the last 20' or so. The anchors on Jupiter2 currently do have gear to rap off. Use your judgement. Good luck.
By Josh Janes
Jun 4, 2012

The lone pro bolt on the third pitch was replaced courtesy of the ASCA with 1/2" stainless hardware in 2012. Also, the first pitch anchor, which previously consisted of one good bolt and one bad one, has been updated. The two 3/8" studs from these replacements still need to be pulled/patched.

If you use and appreciate updated bolts in Red Rocks, consider a donation to the ASCA at safeclimbing.org.
By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 18, 2013

Beautiful exciting climbing on great rock (pitch 4 excepted). Due to complex gear and moves every pitch took some time to lead safely. I thought the first pitch required some very interesting zig-zagging and gear placements to stay "safe." Pitch 2 had a very stout transition into the corner - probably better to get gear high, climb down a bit and do the transition then climb up past your overhead gear on tips lieoffs. Pitch 3 is exciting and again thoughtful and pitch 5 is straight on steep crack climbing. We were able to rap straight down with an 80 meter rope.
By Wylie
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 30, 2013
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13

Maybe I missed something, but the P2 crux feels like a serious sandbag. Powerful, techy, and reachy as hell (for a 5'8" person). P3 is PG13, as long as the scrappy ornamental gear holds. Some of the best rock I've seen in RR for sure.
By AST
Jan 23, 2014

^^^ Agreed. Very VERY hard section on pitch 2 that slapped us up but good. Snot slick walls for feet, intermediate crimps facing the wrong way, intermediate crack pods that maybe a 9yr old could get their fingers in, BIG reach to the one spot where fingers can fit in (and it still isn't over then). Can usually always at least do all the moves on anything rated 5.11 in RR. Not anymore!
By Luke Stefurak
From: Mountain View, CA
May 2, 2014

This route is now has Rings/Links on all anchors thanks to the ASCA and John Wilder for getting me the hardware. You can rappel with a 70m rope but be very very careful! The rap to the P2 anchor is a FULL 35m and you clip the anchor below you. The rap to the ground requires some easy 5th class downclimbing. We had no stuck ropes after doing the rap twice (After Challenger and Jupiter II)
By Amos Whiting
From: Basalt, Colorado
Oct 7, 2014

Would it be safe and reasonable to aid the crux 30 foot corner and keep the rest of the route at 5.10+?