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Sparks Wall
Routes Sorted
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All That Remains T 
Divide and Conquer T 
Generic Spark T 
Go Sparky Go T 
Hawk, The T 
Ici c`est bienne T 
Jump Start T 
Jupiter Crack T 
LGS (Last Great Splitter), The T 
Low Spark T 
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Sparkling Gefilte Fish T 
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Sparks of the Tempest T 
Tom Thumb T 
Unknown T 
Unknown 5.10 T 
Unknown 5.11- T 
What a Fool Believes T 
Zebras and Moonbeams T 
Unsorted Routes:

Jupiter Crack 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 130'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Steve Hong
Page Views: 2,341
Submitted By: Sam Feuerborn on Mar 18, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Photo credit to Kayla Watson

Description 

2 bolts protect 5.11 moves through Chinle trad pro is available but is more pscyhological than legit, first few ascent parties did it w/out the bolts but was made safe at the request/approval of SH. then a slowly widening hands crack to the left fork which widens from new #5 camalots to #6 camalots

Location 

Obvious open book Y crack that can been seen from Ruins camp on right side of the wall.

Protection 

1 of each in BD C4 1-6


Photos of Jupiter Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Mr Sam sending the traverse.
Mr Sam sending the traverse.
About to start the wild traverse protected with #5...
About to start the wild traverse protected with #5...

Comments on Jupiter Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By slim
Administrator
Apr 11, 2012

great photo of karin budding following the traverse on page 95 of canyon country climbs. the caption only says 'R-rated traverse', so i never knew which route it was until now. thanks for clearing up one of life's little mysteries for me.
By Skyeler Congdon
From: his van
Sep 21, 2012

After 10 years of climbing, I consider this to be possibly the greatest single pitch of rock climbing I've ever done.
By chris Kalous
Oct 7, 2014

Truly one of the greats. I'd add an extra #1 camalot to that rack above.
By Kevin Kent
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Nov 30, 2014

This route is definitely awesome!
Not even close to the listed 130'. 70m rope was ample and I imagine a 60m would work.
Also the #6 didn't fit super well at the end, you might want to bring a 2nd #5 instead.
By L Stern
From: Golden, CO
Mar 30, 2015

Loved this climb! Excellent, especially if you're looking for something unique and wild.

A healthy rack is: 2 x #2 camalots, 2-3 x #3 camalots, 1 x #4 (new) 1 x #4 (old), 2 x #5 (I used new camalots, but old would probably work also), 1 x #6. It was nice to have a 48 inch runner and several slings. I did not find anywhere to place a #1 camalot. DO IT!!!
By Princess Mia
From: Vail
May 9, 2015
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R

Super route! The crux is the start passing the bolts. Very very desperste if you are short.
And whomever put the bolts in should have their head examined. They dont even come close to protecting the crux moves..... In fact a ground fall would happen if you blow it after the first one and a ledge fall after the second. I really dont think Hong would approve of the shitty placements.
By Sam Feuerborn
From: Durango, CO
May 10, 2015

Those bolts have been mentioned a few times, in person and here on the magnificent interwebz.

The first was placed on lead during a ground up ascent to protect the opening moves before the ledge and before it was understood that this climb had already been established.

The second bolt was placed after contact with the FA party had been made and was also placed on lead. It was placed in a location that would make the crux move safe albeit a bit spicy without making the #1 placement above it redundant (I beleive that's what it was, though this memory is a few years old). The fall to the ledge before the next placement wasn't deemed dangerous unless you didn't clip the bolt and chose to place the 00 C3 behind the loose block to the left, in which case sticking the ledge is semi-mandatory.

Only two bolts were placed in order to maintain some of the original character of the climb while also protecting the hardest moves. Yes you could deck before the second bolt (this seems to be the case on a great many bolted climbs), but the climbing is relatively easy.


Have fun and check your knot!
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