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West Side Wall
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Juno 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
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Page Views: 205
Submitted By: kevin fox on Aug 21, 2011  with updates from Kurtis Anderson

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Description 

This route lies on the the west side of the arena. The line has face climbing and leads to crack climbing on the upper section of the climb.

Per Kurtis Anderson: be careful when beginning the diagonal crack, towards the top of the climb. There is a small, loose boulder (inside the crack) that can be pulled on in desperation, but climbers should avoid doing so.

Location 

It is to the right of Pax.

Per Kurtis Anderson: the route is the second to the left on the West Side Wall in The Arena. When it is damp out, this route (with others on the west side wall) gets extremely slippery with vegetation that clings to the rock. There is also a stream of water that seeps under the face and emerges at the beginning of Juno. West Side wall is best when it has been dry for a few days. The bottom of the wall acts as a drainage for rain, and descent out of The Arena is very hazardous as the slabs that are climbed to enter The Arena become near impossible to downclimb. Be cautious exiting The Arena via the Southwest approach when it has rained!

Protection 

8 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.


Comments on Juno Add Comment
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By slim
Administrator
Jun 11, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

If this is at your limit, be a bit careful getting to the 2nd bolt. Make sure your belayer is payin' attention.