Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Main Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
38 Special 
Afterburner 
Ankles Away 
Aquittal, The 
Arete Butler 
Atrophy 
Autocratic for the People 
Bear Mountain Picnic 
Big Empty, The 
Bottled Up Warrior 
Bottom Feeder 
Crawdaddy 
Darkie the Bum Beast 
Diamond Cutter 
Dihedral 
Dummkopf 
Dutch Maiden 
Earflaps 
Eclipse 
Ethnic Cleansing 
Everybody Knows Fire 
Finger Puppets 
Fish-eyed Fool 
Flim Flam 
Foster Child 
Framed 
Gas Chamber 
Golden Girl 
Gravity Boots 
Greed 
Grey Matter 
Handcuffed 
Hoosier, The 
It's All Good 
Jacob's Ladder 
Junkyard 
Kids With Guns 
Kill or be Killed 
La Pistola 
Launch Pad 
Long Slab aka Milk Duds 
Lynn's Route 
Mammplitude 
Mammy 
Miss Prissy 
Miss Scarlet 
Moonscape 
Moving Target 
Mrs. Treated 
Narcissism 
On the Side 
One Hand in my Pocket and the Other on a Stout 
Pillsbury 
Pocket Pool 
Pond Scum 
Premarital Drilling 
Proposition One 
Rehab 
Reptile 
Rode Hard, Put Up Wet 
Rolffed 
Rollo 
Satisfaction 
Saturated 
Size Matters 
Skipper 
Snake Charmer 
So What 
Something's Always Wrong 
Standing Room Only 
Stun Gun 
Supersaturated 
Tea and Strumpets 
That Orange Hat 
Therapist 
Thieves 
Timeless Christian Values 
Twist and Shout 
Unknown In Red Light District 
Vapor Lock 
Wedgie 
Wet Willie 
Witchy Woman 
Wristlets 
Young and the Restless, The 
Unsorted Routes:

Junkyard 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Eddie Whittemore, 1992
Page Views: 663
Submitted By: Michael Underwood on Nov 9, 2010
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Starting the sustained section of Junkyard

Description 

A simultaneously pumpy and crimpy route, Junkyard wanders up a slightly negative series of ragged flakes and awkwardly angled blocks until the handholds run frustratingly thin around the fourth bolt, where even the shift of poise during clipping can send you plummeting down to the first bolt for an exhilarating 30' whipper.


Location 

Sanford Wall; one of the main routes. It's just left of Grey Matter, which follows an arete on the right side of the buttress.


Protection 

4 bolts, shuts.



Comments on Junkyard Add Comment
Show which comments
By Kate Mittendorf
From: Nashville, TN
Nov 14, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

This doesn't get the love it deserves, in my opinion. There's now 5 bolts, if memory serves correctly. Easy climbing to the 2nd bolt, figure out a very interesting section to the 3rd bolt, and beware of a whipper if you fall whilst clipping! Starting that clip is the sustained climbing, through the fourth bolt somewhere higher on crimps, and then more small crimps and a redpoint crux to a good hold (and 5th bolt clip) and then it's easy to the anchors.

By Austin Ray
Jan 21, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

I have to agree with Kate, I loved this route! I especially liked it more than the easier Fish Eyed Fool on the same wall that everyone seems to rave about.

Fairly easy, but pumpy climbing up to the high crux is what gives this the 11 grade. But like she said with 5 bolts now (and some experience falling from the 4th bolt) the falls are short and safe. Definitely hop on this if you are in the area!