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Upper Freeway Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anacram T 
Cakewalk T 
Freeway T 
Junkyard God T 
Meaner than a Junkyard Dog T 
MetroLink TR 
Nobody Walks in LA T 
Sig Alert (aka Cast Up A Highway) T 
Talking Fish, The T 
Totally Nuts T 

Junkyard God 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Gib Lewis & Charles Cole, 1981
Page Views: 231
Submitted By: Tony B on Dec 24, 2003

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BETA PHOTO: Junkyard God

Description 

I should have known better than to get on a route with the name 'junkyard' in it, and no stars assigned...but it was late in teh day and we wanted to do one more pitch - this was close to the walk off.At the upper right end of the W. Face of Freeway wall, you can see a L-facing dihedral formed by a pillar. Just left of this lies a decomposing crack system that can be climbed to the top, with reasonably hard moves next to the reasonably questionable gear. Nobody should be that despirate for another run in J-tree. Go do something nice instead.


Protection 

A standard J-tree rack and a few long slings for the wandering protection options.



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By SlowTrad
From: St Paul, MN
Jan 27, 2011

This was my first ever 5.9 lead, done after seconding Cakewalk. It is very grainy with iffy pro down low until you get to an overhanging wide crack at the 3/4 mark. You can face climb around the crack with a few balancy smears, I managed to grunt up it.

Edit: This comment should be Junkyard God