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JunkYard Dog (JYD) 

5.11c PG13

   
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Type: Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet
Consensus: 5.11b [details]
FA: Horst, Evler '87
Submitted By: Ladd Raine on Apr 10, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: JunkYard Dog

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Description 

Bolts (and nasty pitons) protect the bottom cruxy moves, then continue up sparse crack systems to gain the crux transition into the upper portion of New River Gunks.

Unbelieveably fun moves up the bottom part, and perfect vertical hard crack climbing above.

Super-fun, this route deserves more attention.


Location 

Just right of New River Gunks on East side of Giant Flake


Protection 

A bolt and crap pitons for bottom section
bomber red alien and #7 nut below crux, run out until almost at anchors.
Anchors are hard to find on lower ledge right of New River Gunks anchors and down a little.



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By Chris Whisenhunt
From: Fayetteville, WV
Aug 21, 2012
rating: 5.10d

Just climbed this and was able to find some nut placements and a red tcu spot up high. No way this is PG-13.