All day sun and a minimal approach, several easy routes, and numerous anchors make this a busy area. Be prepared to fight with guides and organized groups trying to top rope all the classics on weekends.
The main part of the junkyard wall has several great routes, but the cliff top has been killed by easy access to anchor bolts. The upside is that almost every other wall at the New has been saved from a lot of traffic.
The zealous area is right past the bouldering cave and is not to be missed for the namesake route.
The dog and cat walls are a 15 minute hike away and will be considerably less crowded.
From the parking lot head down the left trail to reach Junkyard South. Originally this trail went thru a typical Appalachian refuse pile. It has mostly been cleaned up.
This is the classic line about 150 feet downstream of the bouldering cave. Look for a finger crack exiting a roof right above the ground. Climb the finger crack up to a horizontal hand crack. Traverse right to a stance, place a bomber piece and fire up the next slightly overhung 20 feet or so (crux) placing gear along the way from good interspersed jams. Finish by traversing left on flakes and then back right to the anchor....[more]Browse More Classics in WV
By Ladd Raine Administrator From: Plymouth, NH Aug 2, 2007
Yes we guides do take New River Gunks, Distortionist, Keep it Tight, and the Cave Routes, but the classics that are harder than 5.8 are never taken by guides because we don't want to have to haul our clients up them. Don't fear, Junkyard's 5.9 classics won't be being used by guides on weekends, only by every gym rat within 100+ miles.
Okay...my mistake...I shouldn't have gone there on a weekend of a three day holiday weekend...between the guides and the top ropers it was almost impossible to get a lead in here. Doesn't anyone lead routes here? I heard one group of two say to their friends, another group of two..."we have a rope set up on a 5.7, a 5.8, a 5.9 and the 5.11 around the corner..." but I digress...