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Junkyard Area

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Cat Cliff 
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Junkyard Wall 
Zealous Area 

Junkyard Area 


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Location: 38.0831, -81.07948 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 8,924
Administrators: Chris Whisenhunt, Ladd Raine, Shawn Heath, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Chris Whisenhunt on Nov 25, 2013
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Jeremy Adkins at the top of New Yosimite 5.9

Description 

All day sun and a minimal approach, several easy routes, and numerous anchors make this a busy area. Be prepared to fight with guides and organized groups trying to top rope all the classics on weekends.

The main part of the junkyard wall has several great routes, but the cliff top has been killed by easy access to anchor bolts. The upside is that almost every other wall at the New has been saved from a lot of traffic.

The zealous area is right past the bouldering cave and is not to be missed for the namesake route.

The dog and cat walls are a 15 minute hike away and will be considerably less crowded.


Getting There 

From the parking lot head down the left trail to reach Junkyard South. Originally this trail went thru a typical Appalachian refuse pile. It has mostly been cleaned up.


36 Total Routes


['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',17],['2 Stars',13],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',4],['5.7',5],['5.8',4],['5.9',5],['5.10',9],['5.11',8],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Junkyard Area:
Cave Routes 1 and 2   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     TR, 1 pitch, 70'   Junkyard Wall
New River Gunks   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b PG13     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   Junkyard Wall
Mr. Ed   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 65'   Junkyard Wall
The Contortionist   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 60'   Junkyard Wall
V-Slot   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Junkyard Wall
New Yosemite   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 65'   Junkyard Wall
Four Sheets to the Wind   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 85'   Junkyard Wall
Team Jesus   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a PG13     Trad, 65'   Junkyard Wall
The Entertainer   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   Junkyard Wall
Rapscallion's Blues   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 65'   Junkyard Wall
The Realignment (Entertainer direct)   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b PG13     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   Junkyard Wall
Zealous   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 65'   Zealous Area
Stuck In Another Dimension   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 75'   Junkyard Wall
Reachers of Habit   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Junkyard Wall
Reaching New Heights (New River Gunks Direct)   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Junkyard Wall
Antropov's Cold   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 75'   Junkyard Wall
JunkYard Dog (JYD)   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a PG13     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   Junkyard Wall
Browse More Classics in Junkyard Area

Featured Route For Junkyard Area
Tony E floating Zealous

Zealous 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b  WV : The New River Gorge : ... : Zealous Area
This is the classic line about 150 feet downstream of the bouldering cave. Look for a finger crack exiting a roof right above the ground. Climb the finger crack up to a horizontal hand crack. Traverse right to a stance, place a bomber piece and fire up the next slightly overhung 20 feet or so (crux) placing gear along the way from good interspersed jams. Finish by traversing left on flakes and then back right to the anchor....[more]   Browse More Classics in WV

Photos of Junkyard Area Slideshow Add Photo
Junkyard bouldering during a downpour
Junkyard bouldering during a downpour
Copperhead (3 ft) near the base of <em>Four Sheets...</em>
Copperhead (3 ft) near the base of Four Sheets...
Black Rat Snake (8-10 ft.)
Black Rat Snake (8-10 ft.)
The Copperhead chilling out on top of New River Gunks/ Junkyard Dog
The Copperhead chilling out on top of New River Gu...
Bouldering cave
Bouldering cave
Comments on Junkyard Area Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Aug 2, 2007

Yes we guides do take New River Gunks, Distortionist, Keep it Tight, and the Cave Routes, but the classics that are harder than 5.8 are never taken by guides because we don't want to have to haul our clients up them. Don't fear, Junkyard's 5.9 classics won't be being used by guides on weekends, only by every gym rat within 100+ miles.

By Jeff Mekolites
From: HOTlanta, GA
May 27, 2008

Okay...my mistake...I shouldn't have gone there on a weekend of a three day holiday weekend...between the guides and the top ropers it was almost impossible to get a lead in here. Doesn't anyone lead routes here? I heard one group of two say to their friends, another group of two..."we have a rope set up on a 5.7, a 5.8, a 5.9 and the 5.11 around the corner..." but I digress...

By DaveB
Jun 10, 2008

That sucks. If possible, try again - mid-week, early morning. Great routes, worth a second try.

By Punter Brewster
Aug 13, 2009

Definitely. I personally only swing by Junkyard on weekdays with a high threat of rain. Seems to do the trick. We were there last Thursday and had the whole crag to ourselves.