Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Gyms - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
 ADVANCED
Junk Yard Wall
Black Diamond Bbee Backpack - 690cu in

$49.95 20% off

$39.96

at Backcountry

3    more...
Red Chili - Durango Lace

$88.95 21% off

$69.99

at GearX

12    more...
MSR Dragonfly Stove

$139.99 30% off

$97.99

at AlsSports

   more...
Skullcandy Lowrider On-Ear Headphones

$39.99 25% off

$29.99

at AlsSports

   more...
Tenaya Tatanka Climbing Shoe - Men's

$149.95 20% off

$119.96

at Backcountry

2    more...
Giro Rift Bike Helmet

$54.99 25% off

$41.24

at AlsSports

49    more...
Pearl Izumi Thermal Long Sleeve Base Layer Top

$74.99 20% off

$59.99

at AlsSports

110    more...
Marmot Zelus 25 Backpack - 1550cu in

$108.95 40% off

$65.37

at Backcountry

49    more...
Blackburn Camber CF Bottle Cage

$49.99 25% off

$37.49

at AlsSports

   more...
Five Ten Anasazi Lace-Up V2 Climbing Shoe

$159.95 25% off

$119.96

at Backcountry

1    more...
 more Dirtbag Deals

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ann's Revenge 
Antropov's Cold 
Bubba Meets Jesus 
Cave Routes 1 and 2 
Chasing Spiders 
Churning in the Huecos 
Contortionist, The 
Distortionist, The 
Entertainer Direct (a.k.a.. The Realignment), The 
Entertainer, The 
Enteruptus 
Four Sheets to the Wind 
Jumping Jack Flash 
JunkYard Dog (JYD) 
Keep it Tight but Don't Give Me AIDS 
Mr. Ed 
New River Gunks 
New Yosemite 
Nine Lives 
Rapscallion's Blues 
Reachers of Habit 
Reaching New Heights (New River Gunks Direct) 
Rhododenema 
Scott's Turf Builder 
Stuck In Another Dimension 
Team Jesus 
V-Slot 
Yew Nosemite 
Zealous 

Junk Yard Wall 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Page Views: 40,990. Good page?   
Administrators: Ladd Raine, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Brian Adzima on Oct 3, 2006

Make this area a Favorite
What's New
  Print a Mini-Guide with routes

Add Route  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event 

Sat Sun Mon Tue Wed
Thunderstorm
74° | 59°
Thunderstorm
75° | 61°
Chance of a Thunderstorm
79° | 63°
Chance of a Thunderstorm
88° | 64°
Chance of a Thunderstorm
88° | 59°

New Yosemite (5.9), a Junk Yard favorite.

Description 

A minimal approach, several easy routes, and numerous anchors make this a busy area. Be prepared to fight with guides and organized groups trying to top rope all the classics on weekends.

The main part of the junkyard wall has several great routes, but the cliff top has been killed by easy access to anchor bolts. The upside is that almost every other wall at the New has been saved fom alot of traffic.

The Dog and Cat Walls are a 15 minute hike away and will be considerably less crowded.


Getting There 

From the parking lot head down the left trail to reach Junkyard South. Originally this trail went thru a typical Appalachian refuse pile. It has mostly been cleaned up. Try to stick to the main trail as the Access Fund (?) is trying to revegatate the others.

Junkyard North and the Dog and Cat Walls can be reached by taking the right trail from the parking lot and going down the ladders.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Junk Yard Wall:
Cave Routes 1 and 2   5.7     TR, 1 pitch, 70 feet   
New River Gunks   5.7+ PG13     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
V-Slot   5.9     Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet   
The Contortionist   5.9     Trad, 60 feet   
New Yosemite   5.9     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 65 feet   
Four Sheets to the Wind   5.9+     Trad, 1 pitch, 85 feet   
Team Jesus   5.10a PG13     Trad, 65 feet   
The Entertainer   5.10a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
Rapscallion's Blues   5.10c     Trad, 1 pitch, 65 feet   
The Entertainer Direct (a.k.a.. The Realignment)   5.10d PG13     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
Zealous   5.10d     Trad, 1 pitch, 65 feet   
Stuck In Another Dimension   5.11a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 75 feet   
Reachers of Habit   5.11b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   
JunkYard Dog (JYD)   5.11c PG13     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet   
Antropov's Cold   5.11c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 75 feet   
Browse More Classics in Junk Yard Wall

Featured Route For Junk Yard Wall
The Entertainer (5.10a). Junkyard Wall, New River Gorge, WV.

The Entertainer 5.10a  WV : New River Gorge : ... : Junk Yard Wall
Awesome jams and locks make this route a classic at the grade.Better learn how to hand jam before attemping a lead on this climb, because if you don't you'll make the beginning into a 5.12 sufferfest.Ignore the jug out right and take the crack head on, pull the mini-roof and gain a ledge, protect well and continue up and then left following obvious crack system to the anchors....[more]   Browse More Classics in WV


Photos of Junk Yard Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Copperhead (3 ft) near the base of <em>Four Sheets...</em>

Copperhead (3 ft) near the base of Four Sheets...

Black Rat Snake (8-10 ft.)

Black Rat Snake (8-10 ft.)

The Copperhead chilling out on top of New River Gunks/ Junkyard Dog

The Copperhead chilling out on top of New River Gu...

Jeremy Adkins at the top of New Yosimite 5.9

Jeremy Adkins at the top of New Yosimite 5.9

Junkyard bouldering during a downpour

Junkyard bouldering during a downpour


Comments on Junk Yard Wall Add Comment
Show which comments —
By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Aug 2, 2007

Yes we guides do take New River Gunks, Distortionist, Keep it Tight, and the Cave Routes, but the classics that are harder than 5.8 are never taken by guides because we don't want to have to haul our clients up them. Don't fear, Junkyard's 5.9 classics won't be being used by guides on weekends, only by every gym rat within 100+ miles.

By Jeff Mekolites
From: HOTlanta, GA
May 27, 2008

Okay...my mistake...I shouldn't have gone there on a weekend of a three day holiday weekend...between the guides and the top ropers it was almost impossible to get a lead in here. Doesn't anyone lead routes here? I heard one group of two say to their friends, another group of two..."we have a rope set up on a 5.7, a 5.8, a 5.9 and the 5.11 around the corner..." but I digress...

By DaveB
Jun 10, 2008

That sucks. If possible, try again - mid-week, early morning. Great routes, worth a second try.

By Punter Brewster
Aug 13, 2009

Definitely. I personally only swing by Junkyard on weekdays with a high threat of rain. Seems to do the trick. We were there last Thursday and had the whole crag to ourselves.