Mountain Project: Climbing New River Gorge

New Yosemite (5.9), a Junk Yard favorite.

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Junk Yard Wall:

Cave Routes 1 and 2 5.7 TR, 1 pitch, 70 feet

New River Gunks 5.7+ PG13 Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80 feet

V-Slot 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet

The Contortionist 5.9 Trad, 60 feet

New Yosemite 5.9 Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 65 feet

Four Sheets to the Wind 5.9+ Trad, 1 pitch, 85 feet

Team Jesus 5.10a PG13 Trad, 65 feet

The Entertainer 5.10a Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80 feet

Rapscallion's Blues 5.10c Trad, 1 pitch, 65 feet

The Entertainer Direct (a.k.a.. The Realignment) 5.10d PG13 Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80 feet

Zealous 5.10d Trad, 1 pitch, 65 feet

Stuck In Another Dimension 5.11a PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 75 feet

Reachers of Habit 5.11b Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet

JunkYard Dog (JYD) 5.11c PG13 Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet

Antropov's Cold 5.11c Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 75 feet

Featured Route For Junk Yard Wall

Zealous 5.10d WV : New River Gorge : ... : Junk Yard Wall

This is the classic line about 150 feet downstream of the bouldering cave. Look for a finger crack exiting a roof right above the ground. Climb the finger crack up to a horizontal hand crack. Traverse right to a stance, place a bomber piece and fire up the next slightly overhung 20 feet or so (crux) placing gear along the way from good interspersed jams. Finish by traversing left on flakes and then back right to the anchor....[more] Browse More Classics in WV

Photos of Junk Yard Wall

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Copperhead (3 ft) near the base of Four Sheets...	Black Rat Snake (8-10 ft.)	The Copperhead chilling out on top of New River Gu...
Jeremy Adkins at the top of New Yosimite 5.9	Junkyard bouldering during a downpour

Comments on Junk Yard Wall

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By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Aug 2, 2007

Yes we guides do take New River Gunks, Distortionist, Keep it Tight, and the Cave Routes, but the classics that are harder than 5.8 are never taken by guides because we don't want to have to haul our clients up them. Don't fear, Junkyard's 5.9 classics won't be being used by guides on weekends, only by every gym rat within 100+ miles.

By Jeff Mekolites
From: HOTlanta, GA
May 27, 2008

Okay...my mistake...I shouldn't have gone there on a weekend of a three day holiday weekend...between the guides and the top ropers it was almost impossible to get a lead in here. Doesn't anyone lead routes here? I heard one group of two say to their friends, another group of two..."we have a rope set up on a 5.7, a 5.8, a 5.9 and the 5.11 around the corner..." but I digress...

By DaveB
Jun 10, 2008

That sucks. If possible, try again - mid-week, early morning. Great routes, worth a second try.

By Punter Brewster
Aug 13, 2009

Definitely. I personally only swing by Junkyard on weekdays with a high threat of rain. Seems to do the trick. We were there last Thursday and had the whole crag to ourselves.

Junk Yard Wall

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Getting There

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