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Junkyard Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ann's Revenge T 
Antropov's Cold T,TR 
Bubba Meets Jesus T,TR 
Cave Routes 1 and 2 TR 
Churning in the Huecos T 
Contortionist, The T 
Distortionist, The T 
Entertainer, The T,TR 
Enteruptus T 
Four Sheets to the Wind T 
Frigidator TR 
Jumping Jack Flash T 
Junk Yard Dog T 
Keep it Tight but Don't Give Me AIDS T,TR 
Lapping the Sap T 
Mr. Ed T 
Mystery Dance T 
New River Gunks T,TR 
New Yosemite T,TR 
Nine Lives T 
Rapscallion's Blues T 
Reachers of Habit S 
Reaching New Heights  T 
Realignment T,TR 
Rhododenema T 
Scott's Turf Builder T 
Stuck In Another Dimension T 
Team Jesus T 
V-Slot T 
Who Knows? T 
Yew Nosemite T 

Junkyard Wall Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 38.08299, -81.08043 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 27,756
Administrators: Ladd, Chris Whisenhunt, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Brian Adzima on Oct 3, 2006

61° | 35°

65° | 49°

65° | 44°

59° | 44°

69° | 50°

63° | 45°
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New Yosemite (5.9), a Junk Yard favorite.

Writing in chalk MORE INFO >>>


This area is home to multiple classic routes at many different ability levels. Most routes are short, from 50 to about 65 feet tall. Plan accordingly, because this area, because of its minimal approach, close proximity to the AAC campground and top access trail, can get crowded very easily. Please share resources here. With only two routes that are bolted, and both of those requiring some gear to avoid a PG rating, this is definitely a place you'll want to bring a rack if you're leading. If you are strictly top roping here, please be polite and share with people that want to lead. There is no such thing as a rope hanging on a route as a reservation. This area is also often guided and often has children present as a result. Act accordingly.

Getting There 

From Highway 19 turn onto Ames Heights Rd. Take a left onto rt 60/96. This is the same road that you'll find the AAC campground. Just after the campground, there is small pull off on the left- between two trees. Further down, there is a turnaround spot at the trailhead with limited parking as well. Don't block anyone in there. Allow enough room for someone to drive in and turn around because after this point, the road is one way. Do not drive down the road any further than this turnaround point. You'll be going the wrong way on a one way road. At the trailhead you have two options. The path to the right has top access, the path to the left is a big set of stairs that takes you to the base of the crag.

Climbing Season

Weather station 3.3 miles from here

31 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',13],['2 Stars',13],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Junkyard Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Junkyard Wall:
Cave Routes 1 and 2   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     TR, 1 pitch, 70'   
Jumping Jack Flash   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 50'   
New River Gunks   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   
Mr. Ed   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 65'   
New Yosemite   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 65'   
The Contortionist   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 60'   
V-Slot   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Four Sheets to the Wind   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 65'   
Lapping the Sap   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
The Entertainer   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 65'   
Team Jesus   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 65'   
Enteruptus   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 70'   
Rapscallion's Blues   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 65'   
Realignment   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   
Bubba Meets Jesus   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
Stuck In Another Dimension   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 75'   
Reachers of Habit   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Junk Yard Dog   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 75'   
Antropov's Cold   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 75'   
Yew Nosemite   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Junkyard Wall

Featured Route For Junkyard Wall
Rock Climbing Photo: The Entertainer (5.10a). Junkyard Wall, New River ...

The Entertainer 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  WV : The New River Gorge : ... : Junkyard Wall
Begin in a crack that is in a shallow, right-facing corner. Climb this crack past a bulge and recover on a comfy ledge. From here you can foot traverse to join another crack 6-8 feet to the left, or you can tackle the sequential diagonal crack that will join you with the larger vertical crack. Climb this larger, juggy crack until it ends at another small bulge, then climb the face holds to the anchor slightly up and right....[more]   Browse More Classics in WV

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