Junk in the Trunk
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BETA PHOTO: Junk in the Trunk beta. Picture taken from lower o...
|2016 Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>|
Pitch 1 starts with about 20 feet of a nice hand crack in a small left facing dihedral but then transitions into a wide groove extending straight up past large huecos on the right for another 60 feet. Features on the face provide opportunities for a variety of moves through the crux as the groove narrows and steepens before squeezing through a notch. Look for two bolted hangers with rap rings above a comfy blocky shelf up and to the right after the notch. Pitch 2 goes right a little and up following another crack system to the base of a beautiful dark brown block which offers the choice of going straight up a crack for a 5.9 variation or drifting right to follow the slanting crack with good holds and protection and leads to a small ledge with two more bolted hangers and rap rings. This anchor is at the top of Barely Legal.
Junk in the Trunk is found about 200 feet along the trail after turning the corner into the Confluence Area with its west-facing wall. The start in the left facing dihedral and the dark chocolate brown block at the top of the route are both fairly conspicuous. You can descend in two raps on a single 60 meter rope from the top of Barely Legal, using an intermediate ledge and rap anchor, as the base of the wall is a little higher at that point.
Cams sized 1/2" to 3". Some doubles in the 1-1/2" to 2-1/2" sizes may be useful. Stoppers fit well in several places.
BETA PHOTO: Overview of the face of Confluence area. Green lin...
Dec 10, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Climbed it 12/2/13 and it was a blast. Good protection on quality rock. The first pitch is significantly longer than the second pitch.
(P2) Get into the crack immediately. Directly above the anchor is a very large, very loose rock. If you get in the crack, you'll avoid it.
By Michael Arriola
Apr 2, 2016
Thought this route was great! Super fun the whole way. Do the 5.9 variation at the top! Takes great gear and is a fantastic finish to the route. You get a great #3 in the Wide crack and .75 in the horizontal crack just before firing the Crux of the 5.9.. You could probably squeeze in a nut or very small cam but shooting straight to the top will save your energy. For reference I am a 5.8-5.9 trad climber maxing at 5.10 as of now and I thought it was very doable at the grade.