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Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face
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Junior Varsity 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 566
Submitted By: David Kider on Jul 28, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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  • Access is limited in the spring and summer due to peregrine falcon nesting; so there are some closures. Checking with the Adirondack Climbers Coalition or the NYDEC can provide the closure status.
  • Peregrine closures and approach trail issues MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Slightly difficult start on black-stained rock. Several options to the left and possibly the right to gain the slab up to the first bolt. Walk the slab up to the second bolt not far away. From there the climb goes more vertical again, yet still slabby. A couple of enjoyable delicate moves bring you up to the anchors.

    Location 

    At the far right of the Luther Wall on the highest bit of land.

    Protection 

    A few cams are useful to protect the opening moves. From there you'll find a bolt, another bolt, room for maybe one more piece of gear and then the chains.


    Comments on Junior Varsity Add Comment
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    By Jeffrey Gagliano
    From: Pennsburg, PA
    Aug 22, 2010

    I dunno, I just got on this route on 8/21/2010. I just lead Certified Raw so I was warmed up. This is no 5.5. The opening sequence is burly and requires significant smears. And once established above the opening moves, it's still quite tenuous. The slab moves are very thin. And the final moves up the head wall are also stout.

    The vegetation at the base testifies to few if any recent ascents. No wonder.
    5.8 easily, and the case could be made for 5.9. Try it and see.
    By Janine Connell
    Aug 23, 2010
    rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

    I agree with Jeff. I just tried to lead this route. I had just successfully lead Ladder (5.7) and followed Fastest Gun and thought this would be an easy end of the trip. I got shut down on the first move and then toproped it. I am glad I did - the slab seemed just as difficult and the bolts are very run out. In fact, if you are short, there is a tricky move to get to the third bolt and you are easily looking at a 30 footer if you miss it. In my opinion, this is not a good climb for those new to leading and is certainly no 5.5. I'd go with 5.8/5.9.
    By Tim Dufrane
    Jul 5, 2012

    5.8 seems about right for the opening move. After that it's probably 5.5-5.6 slab climbing. The last move to the anchors is a little bit sketchy, but protected by a nice bolt placement. Overall a fun climb, and one of my first trad leads. If you're a pretty confident climber, this is fine for a starter lead. However, if you fall near the second or third bolt, you're going for quite a ride. Make sure you place a piece in the crack at the opening move - it will absolutely protect you from falling into the picker bushes right under the ledge.
    By garyjutah
    Aug 3, 2012
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    Stiff 5.5. Deff. no 5.5. With that said great climbing really enjoyed the route.