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La Selva (Jungle Wall)
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Jungle Mountaineering 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 4 pitches, 400'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Jeff Jackson, Alex Catlin, 1989. Last 2 pitches: Craig Pacinda, Dion Alaniz
Page Views: 3,029
Submitted By: Matt Richardson on Apr 21, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (59)
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Bailey Crawford on Jungle Mountaineering.

Description 

The first bolted line in El Potrero Chico. The route follows an obvious clean water streak just below a large bowl (watch out for loose rock). The first three pitches go at 9 to 9+ with run outs. The fourth pitch is the business. This takes off right from the belay at the top of the third pitch. It leads up through a small dihedral on thin moves(crux) and ends on easier rock into a small alcove (uncomfortable hanging belay). The fourth pitch will stretch your 60 m rope, so be careful about how the rope is run through the anchors. Jeff Jackson recommends this climb for a moonlight ascent in Mexico Rock.

Location 

This climb is located on the left side of La Selva. This route is accessed by a trail leading up to the left of the tin pavilion (this had been destroyed in a flood last time I was there in December 2004; it has since been rebuilt). The route is between Jungle Boy (on the left) and Yankee Clipper (on the right).

Protection 

The route is protected by bolts that are widely spaced (particularly on the first two pitches). The bolt spacing is wide enough on these pitches that it is easy to get off route, so be careful. The anchors are fixed with chains at each belay. As with any climb on La Selva, be careful when pulling your rope after a rappel -- nothing sucks more then having to ascend a stuck rope!


Photos of Jungle Mountaineering Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Main routes on Jungle Wall. Photo taken February, ...
BETA PHOTO: Main routes on Jungle Wall. Photo taken February, ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Here is my wife rapping off the third pitch.  You ...
Here is my wife rapping off the third pitch. You ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Me belaying my wife up the second pitch. Notice al...
Me belaying my wife up the second pitch. Notice al...
Rock Climbing Photo: Jack Emery on Jungle Moutaineering. Route directly...
Jack Emery on Jungle Moutaineering. Route directly...

Comments on Jungle Mountaineering Add Comment
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By KirkH
From: Austin, TX
Mar 11, 2009

This route has been retro-bolted and is no longer "runout."
By Matt Richardson
Administrator
From: Longmont, CO
Sep 8, 2010

That is most excellent in my opinion. Both time I have been up this route, I have found myself 15-20' past my last bolt (P2 or P3 I believe, my memory no longer serves) and about 10' to the left of my next bolt when I finally realized I was slowly meandering off route (the traverse was never fun).
By Ken Chase
Feb 5, 2016

was on this today.. 'no longer run out'. There are still a couple 15' gaps between bolts in places, but yes, the 3rd pitch has like 6-7 bolts, not 3. Traverse from the p3 belay up p4 can be done above or below the slab (both are similar difficulty), slightly run out. mind your rope drag. very slabby climb overall, prepare those calves!
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Mar 1, 2016

1st pitch is a nice warm up, if there is a crux it's the move before the last bolt. Small stance belay, easy to see your second. 5.9 - 7 bolts - One *

2nd pitch - more of the same slightly easier with little bulge mid-way losing sight of your partner. Still easy to see and communicate. Small stance belay - 8 bolts - 5.9- - One *

3rd pitch - you not only have gotten your groove on and traveling fast but it's probably 5.8. Angled but sufficient belay ledge with high bolt up and left from the station which helps if you're keeping things organized (route launches up & right from the station). 7 bolts - 5.8 - One *

4th pitch is worth the other mileage. Fun traverse - started with long runners at the first two bolts, then the longer of my quickdraw stash (7"). After the traverse is a well featured stemming, kinda nifty slab that pulls a small roof with many features. Up and over few more bolts with another long sling at the second to last bolt - trend right to anchors. You can see your belayer easily. 5.9 no rope drag, - 10 bolts - Two **

Rap the route, pulls pretty easily but did saddle ropes from 4 back down to 3 due to vegetation and traversing line. Final pulls are straight and easy with a 70.

Notable, I'm sure you you could link 1&2 with little trouble but it's nice to see your partner and pitch it out. I would recommend all 4 raps however.

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