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Chimney Rock
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Jungle Gym 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Dave Baker, Merle Wheeler
Page Views: 821
Submitted By: Chris Prewitt on Jul 1, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Description 

Yet another quality Chimney Rock 5.10; how many is that?

Begin up flake/dihedral using locks and laybacks to find a tenuous crux halfway through. At the bulge where the crack angles right pull through to a good stance and follow finger crack(dirty and weedy) up right gaining good holds. This section is a bother, but not enough to ruin the experience.
Now it's decision time: follow the shallow right facing corner up then right then up. Pro could get tricky past the corner. Alternately, move left onto slab intersecting with the steeper, shallow thin crack (tricky to protect). From here its a couple moves to the big ledge and the chains.


Location 

Locate the alcove containing the striking left-facing dihedral (Ankles Away), then move just around the corner to the right and amongst two trees to find a left facing leaning corner/flake. There may be a couple weeds sticking out of the upper crack. Bolted anchor on ledge.


Protection 

nuts, 0-4TCUs, .3-3 Camalots, some 24" runners will help w/drag.



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By John Hayes
From: Bend, OR
Jan 13, 2010
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

Jungle Gym is a cool climb but you should be very comfortable placing pro' on thin insecure stances. I've led this thing a few times and I'm not too proud to admit that it has scared me every time. The moves down low are thoughtful but at least the pro' is bomber. Higher up, there are enough thin moves above small, marginal nuts to really get your attention. I also seem to recall a patch of grass right where you least need it. There are a few climbs in Tucson that get more credit for a lead than the rating would indicate and in my book, this is one of them.

By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Jan 16, 2010

i agree. this one is full-value. save a green and a blue alien for the top - depending on which ending you do, one of these is going to be the only piece of gear that will go in the middle of a long spicy section.

By John Hayes
From: Bend, OR
Dec 25, 2010
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

Geir,
Well heck, that explains why it always seemed so spicy to me. I'll have to get some Aliens the next time I give it a try.