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Jungle Buzzard  

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b [details]
FA:  Matt Greco, JJ Schlick
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 705
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Jun 15, 2012
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BETA PHOTO: Jungle Buzzard arete. Project on the left with the...

Description 

A Jungle Buzzard is one who preys on his own.... So look out for this severely overhanging arete. NOTE- you will probably want to hang the second draw, and stick clip the first. Power your up to the obvious jug (V?) and then continue past another little burly move to access some larger holds. Turn the slab and scamper to the top.


Location 

Furthest route to the right, starts on same holds as the Hobo Proj.


Protection 

6 bolts, 2 bolt fixed biner anchor.



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By Tamara Hastie
From: Flagstaff, Arizona
Jul 3, 2012

12b/c.....not 12+

By hamlincheese
Jul 4, 2012

This thing baffles me.

By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 4, 2012

For me it was all about getting a very high left foot, just on the left side of the arete. Then the small left hand crimp.... I think it's harder than 5.12.

By dlsask
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 7, 2012

Word. The first boulder problem is manageable, but it's pretty funky between the 2nd and 3rd bolt.

By Colin Cox
Jul 22, 2012

If I rated it as a boulder problem...I'd call it at least v5....possibly v6...which makes it at least 12c. Tamara must be crushing for this to feel like a b/c.

By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 22, 2012

I was thinking V6 was pretty solid, but maybe not in cooler temps?

By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 22, 2012
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b

One long crux from ground to above bolt 3. Powerful and off balance movement with leggy compression. Roped bouldering is my kind of bouldering! Would be three stars if it were twice as long.