Jungle Book (aka Graduation Crack)
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BETA PHOTO: A look at Jungle Book on the way back down.
Many a Roaring Fork tradster got their teeth sharpened on this open book corner; the old timers refered to it as the Graduation Crack. Leading this crack was the graduation lead to become a climber. An excellent first lead, the Jungle Book is found on the east side of No Name Creek, the furthest right corner of the Pink Face and Lone Pine Tree climbs. It is immediately to the right of a right arching crack in a large grey slab. Begin in a corner with a few stemming chimney moves to a ledge. Continue up the open book corner to Metolius rap anchors at about seventy feet. If you have any size of gear you can probably place it; the upper portion can use either large gear or slings around chockstones, or you can solo it in your approach shoes to retrieve lost gear from beginners.
A standard granite rack.
|Photos of Jungle Book (aka Graduation Crack) Slideshow
BETA PHOTO: East side climbs of No Name Creek.
BETA PHOTO: Approach to Jungle Book when leaving the access ro...
© Jason Kaplan. Nick Broeder free solo.
|Comments on Jungle Book (aka Graduation Crack)
|By Jami S Mohlenkamp|
Sep 7, 2006
Fun climb, good warm up. I agree with the 5.7. We were overly eager and tried to scramble up the steep trail at the base of this climb. It proved a chore, 2 steps forward, slid one back down. We went back down and continued up the Jess Weaver approach trail 40 more feet and found a nice trail that leads to the base with a rope for the steepest portion.
|By BJ Sbarra|
From: Carbondale, CO
Sep 12, 2009
I probably wouldn't put someone on this for their first lead. The last 20 feet or so are really chossy, chunky and loose. The corner right of the pink wall would be a much safer alternative.
|By Brian Wright|
From: Glenwood Springs, Co
Dec 15, 2011
I don't know if I would call this "really" chunky and loose, but I agree that the "Second Dihedral" is a much better first trad lead.
|By Jay Austin|
May 31, 2012
This is a great climb, especially for beginners. I would rate it at 5.7, I've led this climb 6 times or so and feel it's great practice for gear placement and crack climbing. I usually take up larger gear from BD 0.75 to maybe even a 4 and a small nut. A must do for beginning trad leaders at No Name.