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Lost Angel
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Earth Voyage S 
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Fright Grooves T 
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Interzone T 
Jungle Blues From Jupiter T 
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Signs of Life S 
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Jungle Blues From Jupiter 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Bob Horan, Skip Gurin, Harrison Dekker, 1981
Page Views: 1,125
Submitted By: Nate Harris on Sep 25, 2002

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Standing on a dot, Luke reaches the arete.

Description 

This route is on the far right side of Lost Angel, in the Wake Up Wall area. It starts 10 or so feet to the left of Drop Zone (the rightmost bolt line behind the large pine tree), in the large right-facing dihedral. It follows a thin crack up one overhang (approx 10a?), goes up the face for a short distance, then continues up through another overhang (10c?). Continue up the lichen-encrusted face and either go up until you can walk off to the right, or traverse right and rappel from the bolts at the top of Drop Zone.

Protection 

Standard rack. Small cams (finger size) for most of it, and a couple bigger pieces for up higher.


Photos of Jungle Blues From Jupiter Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: From these underclings you can lean left to where ...
From these underclings you can lean left to where ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting the first crux. There's virtually nothing...
Starting the first crux. There's virtually nothing...
Rock Climbing Photo: Stepping out under the roof with good jams. Spider...
Stepping out under the roof with good jams. Spider...
Rock Climbing Photo: Underclinging the second roof using fair jams and ...
Underclinging the second roof using fair jams and ...
Rock Climbing Photo: The 45 degree 10c crux roof is on the left. The ae...
The 45 degree 10c crux roof is on the left. The ae...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pulling around onto the slab. You can get a blue C...
Pulling around onto the slab. You can get a blue C...
Rock Climbing Photo: Switching feet to get the left foot onto a thin ed...
Switching feet to get the left foot onto a thin ed...
Rock Climbing Photo: Alex is actually climbing Spider from Mars, a 5.11...
Alex is actually climbing Spider from Mars, a 5.11...
Rock Climbing Photo: Luke really didn't want to let go of the good righ...
Luke really didn't want to let go of the good righ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Reaching for the finger lock.
Reaching for the finger lock.
Rock Climbing Photo: Jungle Blues and Spiders from Mars climbs trad dih...
Jungle Blues and Spiders from Mars climbs trad dih...

Comments on Jungle Blues From Jupiter Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jul 24, 2005

For me, the first overhang was the crux. Perhaps thinner fingers help? Or better footwork? The second overhang was quite a bit easier with good jams and feet. Rossiter's topo shows the second roof as 11a despite a 10c rating in the text.
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jul 24, 2005

To get down: Continue to the top up an easy crack or possibly go up a ways and then right to anchors for the two sport climbs to the right. Or do what we did: Place some gear a short ways above the roof, downclimb and clip the anchor bolts just above the roof on the left (The Host 11c/d) and lower, being careful of the rope over the lip. The second cleans the trad anchor, steps down to the bolts and lowers or raps off.
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Mar 10, 2007

Rolofson's new guide rates the first crux as 11a which makes me feel a lot better. The finger jam is slick, feet are small, and the cam protecting the crux is in a glassy parallel crack, which adds some doubt.

Rolofson calls the second crux 10d, but it feels more like 10a/b to me, although it's intimidating.
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Mar 10, 2007

You can bypass the first crux by doing a "step" to end up above The Vaino Step. A few feet up the starting corner you can stem out left to a knob. Maneuver your right foot up until you can reach out left to a jug/horn. Swing left onto the slab and clip a bolt or two. This variation is about 5.9 if you're tall enough to reach the horn.

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