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Military Wall
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Unsorted Routes:

Jungle Beat 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Larry Day, Tom Seibert - 1979
Season: Any
Page Views: 3,589
Submitted By: Tony B on Oct 6, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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Looking down from the top of the first pitch

Description 

One of the best trad routes in the Gorge, hands down. Also an interesting adventure and a sandbag. Rated traditionally at 5.9+, one is left to wonder, "Plus what?" I say, plus one.

P1, 100'+, 5.9: Climb up the initial corner on good jams, mostly hands-sized and up to the roof. Figure out how to get out to the end of the roof to the belay, which is awesome and not hard at all. Do not let the appearance of the roof from below intimidate you. Belay on large gear (in my case a #4 camalot and a large hex) before heading up and out over the lip of the roof.
P2, 100', 5.10: Place a piece of gear at or above the lip and Climb up over it, being conscious of where your last piece of good gear is- you can ill-afford a fall past your belayer here. Beat the lip and pull into fantastic stems. I think I recall placing red and brown tricams, but TCU's might also work. Continue up the stemming to the top of the wonderful corner (5.9) and finish on face climbing (5.8, PG-13) to the top of the cliff.
Belay from and rap off of some webbing on a large tree. 2 60M ropes required to rap off.


Location 

Get up to Military wall and head left. Keep heading left past all of the known and established sport routes, and until you hit a large right-facing corner with a hide roof above it leading into another corner, now left-facing.
There is a huge yellow/green patch on the left wall not far from the base and a giant, nearly perfectly shaped pine tree below this. The corner system through the roof is Jungle Beat.

Protection 

A standard rack plus one #4 camalot. 2 60M ropes for the rap-off, or walk off.


Photos of Jungle Beat Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Climber on the upper section of Jungle Beat
BETA PHOTO: Climber on the upper section of Jungle Beat
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at the first pitch
Looking up at the first pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: John Cioci follows P2 of Jungle Beat (5.9++++). On...
John Cioci follows P2 of Jungle Beat (5.9++++). On...

Comments on Jungle Beat Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jim Matt
From: Indianapolis, IN
Mar 18, 2007

My climbing partner Barry and I eyed this yesterday...kind of wet and cold for March, but it looks awesome! He said he normally breaks it up in to 3 pitches...
By Cory Tanner
From: Murfreesboro,Tn.
Apr 23, 2012

Did this route yesterday, and definately a sandbag! However it is one of the best trad routes of the grade that Ive done. The topout was very sandy and slopey but if you have double ropes you can rap of off bolted anchors and avoid the topout.
By A0hero
From: Detroit, MI
Mar 23, 2015

Respek the +!!!
By Jackson vermeulen
Apr 4, 2016

Doing this in two pitches worked great for me. Making the first belay in the big ledge at the top of the chimney section felt very natural and rope drag wasn't an issue with long runners.
By dan16
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 10, 2016

So 3 big things were learned. First, getting out of that roof at the beginning of the second pitch is pretty rough, so make sure it's well protected. Really well protected. Second, there are bolted anchors at the top, but they're way off to the right when you pull up on the big ledge, you won't be able to see them at first, easy to miss. Third, if you don't bring up a second rope, there are slings around a tree towards the ground. It's hard to get to the tree, and a single 60m rope may be a bit less than desirable. A 70m is probably better, but make sure those ends are knotted, and a prusik back up is probably a good idea as well. But you can rappel down from that tree, and the slings around it at the time we did it were good (June 2016), but a knife and a couple throwaway slings would be probably not bad to have just in case.

Otherwise, fun route, maybe a bit burly for the grade.

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