Junco 

I suppose it would be hard to campus this one, huh?

Great route. A long sling is useful at the third bolt. The layback moves near the top will make you think.

I had a rope get stuck in the top of the finger crack after I had moved onto the final slab, it sucked, watch out. This is an excellent route.

I also got the rope stuck in the crack on the top. I felt the tug from below just before I reached the anchor. Not fun, due caution. Probably due to the fact that I had no idea what I was doing at that point in my climbing....

A great 5.8 which feels a bit more traditional than others of the same grade in Rumney.

My friend and I agreed that this is the best climb on this section of the wall, even better than lonesome dove (which gets all the stars in the book..I think)

Ultra fun 5.8!! but be wary of the crack near the top. Had watched rope get caught up twice within the hour.

This is my all time favorite 5.8 it cannot be beat. I do this everytime I in the area.

I'll echo what others have said: watch your rope at the crux, as mine got stuck in that finger crack.
Otherwise, super fun and mellow route.

I, too, got my rope stuck recently on this route. For me, first time in 20 years for getting a rope stuck during an ascent. Rather unusual situation.

Also, the quick-clips (3 of them) on the anchor are already quite worn so please help pass along the word not to TR directly through the quick clips. Thanks.

The verdict with the two parties I climbed this with on two ascents is that it's height dependent. Tall people have a much easier time at the upper crux.

I don't see this one ever getting old...

Junco might climb a little differently now. On 4/14, we watched some guy do some "cleaning" and take/rip off (on purpose) 2 huge flakes off Junco.

Whereabouts were the flakes, Julia?

if they were on route he musta been a strong dude! cause thats a solid chunk of rock...

i do remember some loose-ish flakes when i did a link up from junco in to lonesome dove, might have been over that way....

A little disheartened to hear this....any more info would be appreciated. I'll be up there tomorrow and will check it out and report back.

From an email, it was a flake just above the climber's head in the picture "Tom on route". ..not sure if right or left. If it was actually loose, it was a public service. Lots of people hang out below.

When the bolts went in years ago, I cleaned the route, including any loose stuff. (it cut in from the side originally, not up the slab) I remember a little that I wouldn't want to put gear behind, but thought they were fine to climb on. I left those, not wanting to be too heavy handed on an established climb. They could have loosened up more with all the traffic etc. Hopefully the character didn't change too much and the clips are still OK. The rock there is so nice. Change can be OK.

I am with Lee, I cannot think where on the route proper (link up excepted) might be two "huge" loose flakes!

I climbed this yesterday (post flake removal). It still went very fairly at 5.8+ and the bolts were still good. Classic route!

Climbed Junco this past Sunday. The guy who removed the flakes was climbing next to us. The rock blocks now make nice little belay seats right below the route. Bolts were solid. 8+ still seems appropriate. Super fun up top, although I don't think that crack was the most difficult section.