I kind of like this route. The awkward start stymies many, and it's fun to watch the grunting and shoulder-crushing until the crux is figured out. Also, with the crux down low, it's good for new(er) trad leaders.
By Shawn Heath Administrator From: Forchheim, Germany Aug 3, 2010 rating: 5.7+5a15V+13MVS 4b PG13
This is VERY slippery! My partner was complaining all day about how each route we got on was polished, but this was easily the worst. The bottom is super awkward and unstable. I understood the crux move as soon as I got to it, but I felt like I'd slip off at any second. Committing to it is more of a crux than actually doing the move. Once you get up 20 feet or so, it's a cakewalk.
By Jake Jones From: Richmond, VA May 28, 2013 rating: 5.75a15V+13MVS 4b
Super secure jams for both hands and feet if you can't stem out to the right or layback. It is slippery, but if you just jam the beginning section it's a non issue, and there's good pro all the way pretty much anywhere you want it.