|Sunny Side (Right End)
This excellent line is likely the best 12a on the Sunny Side, climbing aesthetic, high quality orange limestone.
The route begins with a difficult, thin crimping boulder problem to reach obvious jugs 8 feet up. Alternatively, if you're tall (or have mad-hops), you can always go for the 'jump start'. A few moderate moves lead to more thin crimps, then a powerful, long reach from an undercling to jugs below the 3rd bolt. From here wander left to a huge jug at the base of a left-facing dihedral. Deceptively strenuous moves lead into the dihedral, where more jugs bring you to the 5th bolt. A fun slab on great rock heads past 3 more bolts to the anchor.
Seventh route from the right, or 3rd route right of Heat Stroke.
Resting at the "huge jug" just before entering the...
BETA PHOTO: Photo taken during the Thanksgiving2008 weather th...
John climbing jump start sorry for the quality.......
From: Albuquerque, NM
Dec 16, 2008
It's possible to get a sit down no hands rest between the third and fourth bolt. I missed it and had to make due with the jug rest, but my partner was able to get it.