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Menses Prow
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Shelf's Worst Route 
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Weed n' Feed 
Unsorted Routes:

Jumbo Pumping Love 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 970
Submitted By: montay on Jan 1, 2001
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Mike Amato working a sidepull halfway up the route...

Description 

To find this route, hike into the [Gallery Canyon] and head up to the Menses Prow. Hike left (west) past the [California Ethics Pinnacle] approximately 100 yards. there should be a large 15 foot high ledge at the base of the south facing wall. Scramble up onto this ledge to a wall with numerous routes. Jumbo Pumping Love is the furthest right of the routes on this ledge (2 routes right of Liquid Affair and 1 route right of [Love Pump]105752896).

[Van Horn's] newer book gives this a very generous 10d. Cruise up on awkward leaning terrain past 4 bolts. The climbing gets easier and more straightforward at this point.


Protection 

6 [bolts] and anchors.



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By patrick
Mar 19, 2002

Jumbo was put up by Pat and Rick Thompson. The grade is definitely 10d.A lot of people who climb at Shelf a lot agree with this grade.

By Rick Thompson
From: Mount Nebbiolo, CO
Apr 1, 2002

Montay - with all due respect for your opinion, the consensus grade for this route is 10d. Since the American grading system is rather vague in many regards (i.e. - variables such as body size and reach, level of fitness, experience, etc.) it at best serves as an approximation of difficulty. That is why a consensus grade, which is defined as the grade generally agreed upon by the majority of climbers, is so important when characterizing the difficulty of any particular route. While we will always see debate in the climbing community about the respective grade of a given route, particularly new test pieces (which this certainly isn't), a trade route such as this one becomes recognized by local climbers as a particular grade, and generally that grade becomes published consensus grade. In this case, the subject route has been repeated hundreds of times, and from those ascents the consensus grade of 10d has emerged.

When one compares the difficulty of this routes to other routes of its grade it seems to measure up quite respectably. For example, it is noticeably more difficult than its companion route, Love Pump (10b/c), and compares quite favorably to Turbo Charged, Inter-cooled, Meat Machine (10c/d), Menses (10d), and Slender Fungus (10d). I suspect that is why people call it 10d.

By Shane Z
From: Colorado
Mar 17, 2003

Funky side pulls from the start, straight forward at the top. A fun climb that's worth doing.

By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Oct 19, 2005
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Enjoyable side pulling with a thin left foot move at the crux around bolt three. The route is bolted extremely well and, in fact, watch out for the z-clip action between bolts three and four. There is a seventh bolt before the anchors which is nice because, although the climbing is significantly easier up there, it's a pleasure to have the protection. There's also a sweet right-hand hand jam at the last bolt before the anchors.

By jhump
Nov 10, 2008

Wow, very tricky route for the grade. Seems like the consensus emerged as a sandbagged route- at least for Shelf grades. My partner and I successfully climbed several routes 11c and harder all weekend, but both of us fell off this one at the crux high step. Then we both easily onsighted 13 Engines to the left at 11c. Not sure what happened here, but I felt JPL was one of the hardest routes I did all weekend. Maybe it is the Gallery area. I also thought Slender Fungus (10d?,11b/c?) was harder than several other 11c routes at the Bank I did the day before. Certainly harder than Unusual Weather at 11c. The grades don't matter to my experience and enjoyment, as all of these are wonderful climbs. I am just starting to question the grading continuity among the various crags at Shelf.

By Curt Nelson
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 14, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

For what it is worth, I will add my rating of 10d to the consensus. It is just a little tricky with the side pulls. Exciting route.

By Joshua1979
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jan 10, 2012

This is IMO a better route than its neighbor 'Love Pump'. Both are worth doing, but JPL has some memorable climbing.