July Jihad 5.12b
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| Type: | Sport, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12b [details] |
| FA: | Huey |
| Submitted By: | FC John on Sep 6, 2009 |
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BETA PHOTO: Beta photo of the 12s on the Ark
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Description Easy climbing up the right facing flake on the right side of the ark, leads to a traverse on rusted iron color pockets up to a cool undercling. Blast up and over the roof here, making a hard move before the next bolt. Save some juice for 3 more bolts to the chains on thin pockets and crimps.
Location Shares the start and the first 4 bolts as the Last Starfighter and Unsubstantiated Propaganda
Protection 13 Bolts to chains. Although the moves were easy 10-, it was comforting to have a longer runner to clip an extra bolt to protect the traverse.
By Phil Lauffen
From: Louyuppie
Aug 12, 2011
| I thought the crux clip was... the crux! I think taller people should have an easier time of it. |
By Toby B
Sep 15, 2012
rating: 5.12b
| I definitely felt like the crux was a move from a tiny crimp up to a pinch right after you come out around the roof. Lovely climb, though, and unlike many others actually has a clipping stance for the anchors up in the churt. |
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