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Euphamiah Beresford Memorial Wall a.k.a. "The Butt Rocks Wall"
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July 4th 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Mike McNeil
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall and sometimes Winter
Page Views: 987
Submitted By: BBQ on Jul 3, 2009

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Pic taken from San Fran

Description 

This absolutely fabulous route will make you stand up and salute Spearfish Canyon. Starts on "Oh beautiful for spacious pockets" and works its way to "Amber waves of a roof" that might give the intermediate climber a WTF moment. But don't worry, just think about how to attack the problem, and go for it, the moves are all there and the protection is exactly where you want it. Then keep jug hauling up this "purple mountain majesty", and you will end up far "above the fruited plains". Has anyone ever sung the ENTIRE America The Beautiful song? It's freaking long! Just like this exceptional route.

Location: 8th route from the right. 

July 4th is listed as route #10 on the Butt Rocks Wall in the Spearfish Canyon, The VC and Other Black Hills Limestone guidebook by Mike Cronin. Look for the blocky, black pillar that is detached from the wall and would put you about ten feet above the trail if you were to sit on it. Belay from the trail. The climber will have to navigate a steep, dirty slope (often through poison ivy) to get to the climb itself. Starting on top of the black pillar is common practice. It is recommended that you use a big rope bag or a tarp to protect yourself and keep your shoes clean as you navigate your way there.

Protection 

Take at least a dozen quickdraws. There are 10 bolts and closed shut anchors you need to clip while moving up this beast.


Photos of July 4th Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Chris Pelczarski after his impressive onsight of J...
Chris Pelczarski after his impressive onsight of J...
Rock Climbing Photo: July 4th, 5.10a
July 4th, 5.10a
Rock Climbing Photo: July 4th, 5.10a
July 4th, 5.10a
Rock Climbing Photo: July 4th, 5.10a Sunshine Wall Spearfish Canyon
July 4th, 5.10a Sunshine Wall Spearfish Canyon
Rock Climbing Photo: This route has a really neat escape the pod sequen...
This route has a really neat escape the pod sequen...
Rock Climbing Photo: July 4th, 510a
July 4th, 510a
Rock Climbing Photo: July 4th
July 4th
Rock Climbing Photo: July 4th, 510a
July 4th, 510a
Rock Climbing Photo: Chris P. "Tator Tot" climbs past the sla...
Chris P. "Tator Tot" climbs past the sla...
Rock Climbing Photo: Climber on left is on 4th of July
Climber on left is on 4th of July
Rock Climbing Photo: Escape the pod.
Escape the pod.
Rock Climbing Photo: July 4th, 510a
July 4th, 510a
Rock Climbing Photo: Wilson On The Drums finds his rhythm on July 4th.
Wilson On The Drums finds his rhythm on July 4th.

Comments on July 4th Add Comment
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By Joe M
From: Beckley, wv
Jun 5, 2010

This is definitely a must do route!!! There are now 11 bolts plus the anchors.

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