Ohhhh Julia...boy was she good. Three quality pitches of climbing, each as spicy and interesting as the other. P1 - Work up the same corner as Little Corner until you can step left into an overhanging and "liebacking" fingercrack. Climb until the angle eases off and belay. P2 - Traverse left on thin holds and then up. Climb a short shallow dihedral, then up to a chimney/slot (spooky), make committing moves onto the face and climb up to the top of a block/flake under a roof/flake. P3 - Pull the roof on flakes and run up to the top as the angle eases and belay. Hike back to camp and have a cold one...
By Ryan Williams Administrator From: London (sort of) Oct 21, 2011 rating: 5.106b20VII-19E2 5b
We did this in two long pitches. My partner belayed to the right of a tree, below the first roof. I did about a 170 foot pitch to the next big tree ledge on the left. Then we scrambled/soloed up the gully about 30 feet left of the tree.
There is about 20 feet of .10b climbing, with the rest being 5.9 or easier. Great route if your trying to break into the mid-10s... just make sure you get good gear at the crux or you'll land in the top of a tree!
An excellent route with good gear for the crux move. Some of the upper sections are freaky and/or scary, but it all amounts to another fun ride up shortoff. This is one of my favorites so far! You can easily scramble up to the tree below the opening moves and do this in two pitches, though I usually do it 3.