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Redgarden - Tower Two
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Jules Verne 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a R

   
Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 700'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Steve Wunsch, Jim Erickson
Fixed Hardware: 2 Lead Pins, 1 Lead Bolt [details]
Page Views: 10,064
Submitted By: Alex Hearn on Jul 27, 2002

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  • Description 

    This route has been somewhat immortalized by the local film Scary Faces, which has fueled the idea that it is a desperate & frightening run to the top of Redgarden. It's not. While it certainly brings a little spice to the leader's day, and for me, a serious dose of paste-mouth, it isn't the scare-fest some have made it out to be.

    This is a 6 pitch line starting with T2 but immediately breaking left at the 1st pin over the roof. Follow good holds past another pin and up to a shallow roof, clip that pin and head left on positive underclings to a line of buttonheads over a bulge. Continue up to an obvious belay perch. Numerous draws & slings are helpful.

    P2.- Head up & left following the obvious line into a large chimney/dihedral with many pounds of bird shit lining the rock, and belay at the base of Naked Edge (5.8+ (the + due to turd-smearing)).

    P3.- Follow a left leaning, right-facing dihedral with a pillar on small fingers and good stemming to a small roof (smaller wires & Aliens), place a couple of bomber nuts (you don't want to belay here) and run out the remaining 15 feet straight up on smaller holds (.11a). Follow the rotten band up & left for 50 feet on easier terrain to a belay/rap station just left of Lene's Dream, which I think might make a better finish to this pitch - - although I haven't done it yet. The remaining pitches follow easier rock to the top with an isolated .10a roof move, and a slab finish. There is also an option to join the upper pitches of Lene's Dream.

    This is a stellar line if only for the climbing. Factor in the historical significance of bold ground-up ascents in Eldo, and it's a must-do!


    Protection 

    Standard Eldo rack with many smaller wires - - I didn't use anything larger than a #1 Camalot.



    Photos of Jules Verne Slideshow Add Photo
    Wendell Nuss (leading) and Michael Gilbert ( belay) about to finish one of the earliest ascents of Jules Verne. Photo courtesy of the Jim Newberry collection.
    Wendell Nuss (leading) and Michael Gilbert ( belay...
    Looking down on the crux runout.
    Looking down on the crux runout.
    Wendell Nuss (leading) and Michael Gilbert (belay) about to finish one of the earliest ascents of Jules Verne. Photo courtesy of the Jim Newberry collection.
    Wendell Nuss (leading) and Michael Gilbert (belay)...
    Kevin belaying for the 3rd pitch, photo by Emily Anderson again...
    Kevin belaying for the 3rd pitch, photo by Emily A...
    Just one or two more hard moves to the jug!  Photo courtesy Clint Dillard.
    Just one or two more hard moves to the jug! Photo...
    The former P1 crux inverted knife blade. Note the sheared tip. Roughly 1/2" is missing. The rock that held the pin cracked also. This was a time bomb waiting to go off.
    BETA PHOTO: The former P1 crux inverted knife blade. Note the ...
    Joseph Crotty sets up for the now missing (i.e., as of 2013-02-17) inverted knife blade clip just off the deck at the lip of P1 pitch of Jules Verne. A new knife blade was placed with a park permit in a like for like replacement. The new pin would be seen just above the climber's right ankle.
    Joseph Crotty sets up for the now missing (i.e., a...
    Climbers on P2 of Jules Verne.
    Climbers on P2 of Jules Verne.
    Climbers on P2 of Jules Verne with a view of the crux 3rd pitch above them.
    Climbers on P2 of Jules Verne with a view of the c...
    The new BD #1 knifeblade that replaced the old one via ECSP like-for-like replacement permit. Note, the old knifeblade was in the same seam up and left where the upside down V-notch is along the seam. The new one drove well and felt solid. Clipping this is very similar to the old one and feels equally burly with the high footing. Pack those guns!
    BETA PHOTO: The new BD #1 knifeblade that replaced the o...
    Comments on Jules Verne Add Comment
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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 5, 2013
    By Alex Hearn
    Jul 27, 2002

    Seems I have this fear with every new Eldo route that I'll cruise up, place some gear, only to find that 30 feet later I'm on a totally blank face with no upward prospects and staring down the barrel of a really ugly fall. Then I finish the route, and am surprised to find it was _all there,_ my fear completely unfounded. Jules Verne is no different. The runout is the fearsome part, but keep in mind that it isn't that tough if you've made it this far, and there's good gear in the rotten band above. The hardest part was hanging on at the roof trying to figure out where the really scary & dangerous part was - - 'cos it had to be worse than this! It isn't, and I quickly discovered it was _all there._

    By Anonymous Coward
    Jul 29, 2002

    Keep in mind, however, that some well-known climbers have taken 30-40 foot falls here.

    By Willie Mein
    Jul 29, 2002

    ...and hurt themselves.

    By adam brink
    From: Boulder, CO
    Sep 24, 2002
    rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R

    i was under the impression that this route is 5.11a. what's up with the 11b/c rating? is this a reflection of the lene's dream finish or do people think the original rating is a sandbag? thanks

    By steve dieckhoff
    Sep 25, 2002

    The .11 b/c rating is due to the first pitch which is also rather serious when you traverse at the lip of the initial 'roof', though there is a safer variation if you traverse higher. Rope stretch makes this exciting for the second as well.This is a good pitch with some interesting sequences and once you get above the lip, and past the dubious pin, the protection is good.. As for the 4th pitch...I suspect that most falls occur because there is a place to stop and momentum is hard to regain. Good luck!

    By Alex Hearn
    Oct 7, 2002

    Yeah, like I didn't sandbag this one enough, now ya'll want to downgrade it!

    Well OK, the moves on the upper pitch didn't feel any harder than easy - 11, and the first pitch I agree would be mid-11 if you stay on the lip, traverse up & left and skip the first pin, as I understand the first ascencionists did. An easier option exists to hit that first pin & move up, then left, which I'd put as an easy 11 one-move-wonder. Note that it can be done by clipping the first pin, a la T2, then traversing the lip as Steve mentioned, and any fall should stop just shy of the ground, with the swing involved. This way, you're reasonably protected while you do the original moves. The rest is probably sustained mid-10 climbing. I went with Rossiter's 11 b/c rating, as that's the guidebook I own. Hope that helps.

    By Anonymous Coward
    Oct 23, 2002

    The last pitch is harder than .10a, more like 5.10+ and kind of in-your-face.

    By Dan Russell
    Dec 3, 2002

    On the first pitch, I highly recommend traversing the lip instead of heading up. As long as you don't fall while clipping the pin, you won't deck, and the moves are SO much more classic. On the fourth pitch, the gear below the crux runout is bomber, and the moves are all on positive edges. Definitely a mental crux. If you just fire through, it's not bad at all. Beautiful edges, a fun sequence.

    Also, what's with the last pitch? We were going to go into the Edge, but decided to finish the full JV line instead. The whole last pitch was covered in crusty lichen, no chalk, and appeared as if it were never travelled. I felt off-route the whole way, doing some .10 moves on weird gear. It was fun, but were we off-route? Maybe it just doesn't get done much or something. If anybody has better beta for the last pitch, I'd love to hear it.

    Great route. Like most Eldo routes, it wasn't as scary as it's reputation, but definitely as fun as it's reputation.

    By steve dieckhoff
    Dec 3, 2002

    You were probably on route for that last pitch. It doesn't get done much.

    By Nate Christiansen
    Apr 14, 2003

    I am extremely excited to do this climb and the word "bold" is what is attracting me to it. Could someone elaborate a little more on gear? Is this a very popular climb or do people usually get scared by even looking at it?

    By Fred Vanden Bergh
    Apr 15, 2003

    I have not done this route, but it interests me as well. I would highly recommend the film by Peter Mortimer 'Scary Faces' for anyone interested in Jules Verne - well, anyone interested in Boulder climbing for that matter. It is really a great look at the history of this route, as well as some of the great names in Eldo climbing. Its funny, entertaining, and it gives a good idea of what the route is all about. Great stuff!

    Good luck when you get on it! Post back, and let us know how it went!

    By Joe Collins
    Jun 12, 2003

    Quite spectacular in places, and extremely licheny and fouled by pigeon crap in others. The 10d roof pitch at the top does not warrant an 'S' rating (maybe 5.7/5.8 S). For pitch 4, the crux is in overcoming the legend and mystique surrounding the runout section. I could make a comment on how difficult I thought the climbing was, or where I thought the hardest move was.... but I won't... you should go up there and check it out for yourself. In any case, I did not very much enjoy the long traverse on the rotten band that followed... Lene's Dream looks far more appealing.

    So, is anyone willing to give the scoop on Lene's Dream? The guide claims that, "the pro improves once Jules Verne is departed", but the topo gives that section a 'VS' rating. Any thoughts?

    By Alex Hearn
    Oct 27, 2003

    Nate - As for gear, the first pitch is spelled out pretty clearly & the typical Eldo rack is very adequate with a few extra slings for the zig-zag nature of the line. 2nd is easy - use anything. The money pitch, bring lots of small stuff for the first half - - bigger RPs, smaller wires, a set of Loweballs would be ideal here. It's a fingertip crack in a corner with lichen, difficult to see in there & assess the placement, so you'll want to place pro generously since a fall could land your arse on a pillar - not good. The roof crack is a large finger bottleneck, very forgiving, and remember a few 'draws for the 2 new bolts on the face. Just kidding. The top of the face is a great medium nut, and the traverse doesn't matter, it's rotten anyway. The 7 or 8 hex was key there. Go Lene's Dream if you've got the juice. Good luck!

    By Anonymous Coward
    Dec 21, 2003

    I just did this route the other day. I have really wanted to do it for some time now and after doing other significantly more dangerous climbs (kinda ironic) finally thought I was ready. The first pitch is definately the pumpy crux. The third or fourth(depending on how you break up the pitches), was not bad at all. I was nervous going into it, but soon realized that the pitch was actually quite tame. The runout is big, but not huge and the gear at the lip is absolutely bomb proof. The climbing was really fantastic and right at the rotten band you grab a monster thank God bucket and you get good gear. HOWEVER!!, finish on Lene's Dream, climbing on the rotten band only detracts from the exceptional quality of the rest of the route. AJ

    By Brandon Smith
    Feb 8, 2004
    rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

    The only reason I had decided to leave Montana to climb Jules Verne was after watching Peter Mortimer's film Scary Faces. Once I was up there I have to admit I was a bit scared, but all you can do is take a few deep breaths and make the moves. The holds are there and the climbings great! However, I didn't find any "bomber gear" after the runout. I just kept climbing up to the anchors and ran it out some more. The broken band seemed a little chossy anyway, but the climbing is pretty easy after that point.

    By Rob Kepley
    From: Westminster,CO
    Jun 25, 2006
    rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R

    As for the legendary pitch, just take a deep breath and believe....

    By Ian
    From: Boulder, CO
    Apr 23, 2007
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

    Don't let the film Scary Faces scare you away from this route. Like others have said, everything is there and the crux is overcome your own imagination and fear of how runout and hard the climbing may be. The gear at the roof is absolutely bomber and there is definitely good gear at the broken band. I'd say the climbing eases the further away you go from the roof if you keep a cool mind. If you get through the first pitch without a hitch, then the 3rd pitch is definitely not going to stop you. 2 BD#2's might be needed for the 2nd pitch.

    By Steve Sangdahl
    From: eldo sprngs,co
    Mar 5, 2013

    I noticed on Saturday March 2nd that the knifeblade has now been replaced with a new one in a new location. Hopefully it is better than the old one (it must be). Was this pin and the one off T2 and the other pins that have recently been removed off routes in Eldo part of a sanctioned ACE activity? Peace, Steve S