Juicy Fingers 5.10a
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| Type: | Trad |
| Consensus: | 5.10a [details] |
| FA: | Bradley White and Tom Bowker 1986 or 7 |
| Submitted By: | lee hansche on Aug 20, 2007 |
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Description This obscure trad climb lives just to the left of the popular 5.10a Scene of the Crime and though its not nearly as nice as that route i did find it fun (please note: im a trad dork and unless you are too you might not like this one). It's a bit dirty and not super aesthetic but contains some cool holds and fun moves.
Just left of Scene of the Crime locate a piton sticking out about 20-25 ft up on the right side of the super dirty corner. Climb up to there starting on some of the same holds as for scene of the crime but a little left. There is a pin about 15 feet up. And another very rusty one 5 feet up from that (i placed a blue tcu here instead of the pin). At this point move up and left past a good pin and up to a right leaning crack. Hand traverse right along the crack to a mantel move on good holds and the quick clip anchors of Scene of he Crime.
Location Just left of Scene of the Crime.
Protection Trad gear, mostly small cams and a few pins to quick clips.
| Comments on Juicy Fingers |
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By bradley white
From: Rumney, N.H.
Mar 26, 2010
| Thank you for the stars. A worth while climb. The pin protection has seen better days. This is/was the crux protection. It should be bolted where the pins are. The year of the first ascent is way off. The climb was done in 1986 or 7 by Tom Bowker and I. I did lead it. |
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Mar 26, 2010
| Do you think it should be retroed? Im not saying I think it should be just curious about what you think? |
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Mar 26, 2010
| I think so too Bradley, at least a couple of the pins. I'll take a look at it next time I am there with the equipment and see what can be done. It is a nice line.
So same or less number of bolts as there are pins, as a mixed route, is how you would like it? I think it would be good like that. For those who don't want to lead it with gear it could be easely TRed with the few bolts as directionals. |
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Mar 27, 2010
| any reason you wouldnt just replace the pins? |
By bradley white
From: Rumney, N.H.
Jun 9, 2010
| The pin if it comes out without breaking, the hole left usually requires a deeper placement of a bigger piton than before. Pins can fill or expand and weaken an otherwise sound rock hold sometimes. Pins can appear excellent and be rotted beneath the surface.
For the style I climb in mostly, I don't go without them though. Anywhere now in New Hampshire I encourage where safety first is required put in a bolt where that old rotted pin is. Having the pin slot open for fingers could down grade the climb to (5.9). |
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