Juicifer  5.11 R

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Type:  Trad, TR, 50 feet Consensus:  5.11 [details] FA:  Submitted By:  Ben F. on Oct 18, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

perfect finger lock + crimpy side pulls + huge slo...

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Description 

A bit contrived, but incredibly fun. This route consists of an elaborate boulder problem situated above a big bulky crack. The highlight is a throw to a narrow finger lock, which can only be done static if you're about 6' tall. For full value, keep way to the left and steer clear of Holus Bolus.

- Climb the initial face to the left of the tree onto the ledge. From the ledge and small overhang, follow the big bulky crack(low 5th class) up until it turns steeply upward and tapers into a seemingly impenetrable seam. Mantle onto the narrow ledge and the crux is straight up the face following the seam and thin face holds. Very crimpy and balancey at first, and ending with a slopey desperate top out.

Pretty sketchy to lead, as the last good bit of pro is just below your feet before a 15ft run out crux. Everyone who I've seen work this route opted for the top rope.

To my knowledge, this route has yet to see a true red point.

Location 

The thin marble face between Stairway and Holus Bolus.
From the Middle Fork trail, walk along the base for about 30-40 meters. Locate a sizable ledge with a small cavity and overhang, located about 10 feet above a tree. The route begins to the left of this tree.

Protection 

Top Roping: Some slings for the knob at the top (small splitter cams good for backing up behind the knob), and some long (20+ ft) webbing to backup on the trees

Lead: light rack, from #4 metolius down to micro stoppers

Photos of Juicifer Slideshow

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The mantle move on Juicifer, just before the crux-...	Beginning the crux on Juicifer. The right side of ...	BETA PHOTO: Mitch Morris working Juicifer