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Juicifer 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c R

   
Type:  Trad, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
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Page Views: 486
Submitted By: Benjamin F on Oct 18, 2011

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finger lock + crimpy side pulls + huge slopers = J...

Always check road conditions and peregrine closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

An elaborate boulder problem situated above a big bulky crack. For full value, keep way to the left and steer clear of Holus Bolus.

Follow the big bulky crack(low 5th) until it tapers into a seemingly impenetrable seam. From the narrow ledge, the crux is straight up the face following the seam and thin face holds. Very crimpy and balancey at first, and ends on slopers.

Pretty sketchy to lead, as the last good bit of pro is just below your feet before a 15ft run out crux. Everyone who I've seen work this route opted for the top rope.

Location 

The thin marble face between Stairway and Holus Bolus.
From the Middle Fork trail, walk along the base for about 30-40 meters. Locate a sizable ledge with a small cavity and overhang, located about 10 feet above a tree. The route begins to the left of this tree.

Protection 

Top rope: Some slings for the knob at the top (small splitter cams/nuts good for backing up behind the knob), and some long (20+ ft) webbing to backup on the trees

Lead: Standard rack, #2 Camalot down to micro stoppers. doubles of #3, #4 metolius helpful. Sew it up, and make sure you have that crux sequence dialed!


Photos of Juicifer Slideshow Add Photo
The mantle move on Juicifer, just before the crux-...
The mantle move on Juicifer, just before the crux-...
Beginning the crux on Juicifer. The right side of ...
Beginning the crux on Juicifer. The right side of ...

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