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Jugs Revisited 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: George Connor, George Oravetz, 1975.
Page Views: 1,588
Submitted By: Blitzo on Sep 20, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
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BETA PHOTO: "Jugs Revisted". Photo by Blitzo.

Dirt road winter closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Climb a short 5.9 lieback. Continue up a beautiful knobby face with tied off knobs and sparse gear placements. Continue up the wide crack of "Ginger Bread".
Can be done in one or two pitches.

Protection 

Tie-off slings, pro to 4".


Comments on Jugs Revisited Add Comment
Show which comments
By 426
Mar 10, 2007

Very good line, as with most spires climbs, consider taking a few more runners...
By Tommy L-D
Apr 19, 2010

I would have found some pretty small gear helpful too.
By aaron hope
From: Walnut Creek, CA
Oct 14, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

Really fun climb. I agree - bring small gear. I placed a red, purple, and green Black Diamond C3 (along with bigger stuff in the beginning and at the end). Although fairly well protected throughout, you do have to commit to the stiff 5.9 crux with the last good gear placement a couple feet below you.
By Lucian G.
From: Los Angeles, CA
Jul 13, 2015

I agree with the comments here- the SuperTopo recommends a double rack and no nuts. I'd either bring nuts or bring a few extra small cams (like #1 mastercam or smaller) to place in the thin crack on P1. Otherwise it might get a little runout when you traverse onto knobs. A fun route in any case and the crux is low and well protected!
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