|Original: || Hueco: V5 Font: 6C [details]|
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|Submitted By: ||Seth Derr on Dec 30, 2011|
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BETA PHOTO: Juggernaut is the finger crack in the middle
Another awesome problem. Ascend the finger crack just screaming to be climbed in the dihedral below the Moby's boulder using typical diabase feet. In other words they're only there if you believe in 'em.
Off to the right of the path below the Moby's boulder.
1 pad should do it
By skinny legs and all
From: Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
Feb 3, 2013
rating: V4+ 6B+
The only way I knew how to pull onto the wall was by having that tooth chew up my left hand pointer finger when 99% of my weight was on it. Just getting off the ground and into the first stem is strenuous because of the size and orientation of the footholds. This is essentially a double overhanging dihedral with opposing foot chips that eases up with height. It really helps to be flexible and stretch the hamstrings but especially the lower back as it was tweaky on the right side for me. I love this problem it is classic old school B1 highball along with Bleadloaf Arete, Huck, Center 45.
Apr 3, 2015
Great problem. I don't know what's scarier, the last move at the top or the finger lock at the bottom...
I'd also recommend more than one pad just to put your mind at ease, landing is flat though.