Juggernaut 5.10c/d
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 85 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10b/c [details] |
| FA: | Paul Van Betten, Paul "Obie" Obanhein 1983 |
| Season: | Any |
| Submitted By: | Boneware on Nov 21, 2006 |
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BETA PHOTO: This shot is taken standing on the approach trail....
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Description I can’t believe that I have walked by this route so many times and never noticed it before.
It is striking shallow left facing corner, which varies from tips to wide hands with lots of variety in between. Although rock quality is a little iffy in places, especially right off the ground (protects well with a #3 camalot) everywhere you really need it good solid pro can be found.
The anchor is OK, definatly not the best I have seen but I have also seen many worse. It could do with the bolts being replaced, and the webbing is looking a little faded. The fixed nut is bomber and there are a couple beiners to lower/rap off.
Juggernaut is no give me, the face to the left is amazingly smooth and the crack pinches down pretty tight at times. As mentioned above there is some questionable rock in places so place well and when you can get it.
A great way to end the day, often in the shade in the afternoon and is on your way out if you are up on Brownstone or Rainbow.
Location Juggernaut is located on the main face of Jack Rabbit Buttress, if you are coming out of the canyon (returning to the car after being up on Brownstone or Rainbow Walls)on the main trail you will pass the Geronimo gully on your left, and the next fin of rock you come to will be the south end of the main Jack Rabbit Buttress. Take a faint trail here that branches off to the left from the main trail, and takes you north along the east face of Jack Rabbit Buttress, you will see Juggernaut as a nice little dark varnished left facing corner starting out of pink rock. There are 2 bushes either side of the start, and as of 11-20-06 there is blue webbing at the anchors at the top.
If you are coming from the parking lot for Pine creek the route will be on the left (south) end of the main Jack Rabbit Buttress just before you come to the Geronimo gully.
Protection I had a single set from 00 C3 to #3 camalots, and a green and yellow alien, also a set of HB offsets #7-11 and a set of small BD nuts. I did not place the smallest 2 C3’s. I did use all the rest except only 2-3 HBs and a single small nut. I am a chicken though and doubled up some of the smaller pieces.
BETA PHOTO: Juggernaut
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Wilder getting wild on the naut
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By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Apr 1, 2007
rating: 5.10+
| The crux is thin and the rock quality is a little suspect, but can be protected adequately with small cams and nuts/RPs. A fun end-of-the-day tick. |
By Greg Barnes
Mar 14, 2008
rating: 5.10b
| We replaced the anchor today, 3/14/08 - Josh Thompson, Greg Barnes, Joe Denicola.
One of the bolts was a poor 1/4" USE Diamond Taper with a good hanger, the other was a good 3/8" split-shaft with Leeper hanger. Unfortunately, the threads were damaged so replacing the hanger was not a good idea. We pulled the 1/4" and reused the hole, then drilled a new hole for the second bolt. Since the thread-damaged 3/8" is tucked away in the corner, pulling it without damaging the rock is next to impossible, so the hangerless stud is still there.
We didn't have rap rings & quicklinks, those need to be added (there's now a black sling and 2 biners at the anchor). |
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 23, 2008
rating: 5.10b/c
| Really great route with good pro and plenty of rests. Bring some small brass and cams for the crux- really fun climbing!
Also, added SS quicklinks to the bolts today (3/23/08) so the anchor is good to go! |
By Karsten
From: Sacramento, CA
Mar 26, 2008
| Handren,
This route needs stars in the next edition! |
By Jerry Handren
Mar 26, 2008
| Karsten, only a mind lobotomized by the tottering attractions of the Labyrinth Wall could possibly think that this scruffy little route is worth any stars. |
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