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Classic AF pockets with big moves for a bit, followed by briefly perplexing thinness.
After the thin bit it's pockets and footwork to the chains.
Counting from the right-most line before the outside corner, this is the 4th route from the right. It's fairly easily recognized because of the tan, smooth-looking limestone midway up the route.
There is a second pitch (some do it in one) called the Juggernaut Roof and it goes at 5.12b/c.
6 bolts to anchors.
Sometimes the anchors have fixed carabiners.
BETA PHOTO: Juggernaut on the Right
|By Skyler Penrod|
Jul 31, 2008
The rail is above the fourth bolt just below the fifth bolt. Awesome climb, fun moves.
|By Jon Zucco|
From: Denver, CO
Sep 29, 2008
sweet face climbing on good pockets. It's a breeze until the funky traverse at the third bolt. The crux is a big reach for the vert rail and pulling/smearing to the ledge above it for the fifth clip. the crux move aside, i found this to be a much easier red-point than it's neighbor primal magic.
|By Bad Sock Puppet|
May 31, 2009
I found this one to be harder than suicide blonde. The route runs very smooth up to the crux just above the fourth bolt. Before the crux nothing feels harder than 10c, but try not to get out of sequence at the third draw. Once at the crux, you've got to fully extend to reach the pinch with your left hand. Try to get a high foot and then stand up. If you're having trouble with the crux section then you're missing some key holds. After that the route gets increasingly easier to the chains.
From: West Valley, UT
Jul 26, 2009
This is extremely fun. The crux is perfect! The climb is juggy up until the crux. I let you figure it out. A must do!!
|By Jeff Jones|
From: Elk Ridge, UT
Oct 20, 2009
This is a great climb and a must do for the grade. Not sure what to add other than this was very satisfying having worked on this climb off and on for a few years. I think the key is definitely the pinch and then not to forget your feet. Enjoy!
Oct 22, 2010
Love the start to this climb! Too bad it wasn't juggy pockets all the way up then it would be a 5 star climb. The crux move is kind of blah.
From: huntsville, utah
Apr 29, 2013
a left heel hook into one of the high pockets seemed to unlock the crux for me...