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King on the Throne - East
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Jug World T 
Snakes and Ladders T 
Stan's Roof T 
Z-Crack T 

Jug World 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,647
Submitted By: Peter Gram on May 21, 2005

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Jug World is on the Northeast side of King of the Throne. It is the farthest continous crack system on the left side of the face. The climb is only about 30-40 feet in length. Jug haul your way up the face holds and sharp crack with the crux getting off the ground. After gaining the ridge, traverse right to a horizontal crack (quite a ways) where an anchor can be set.

There is a set of fixed anchors which rap off the opposite side of the formation. Only one rope needed.


Standard rack - I placed from .75 camalot up to 3 camalot. There is no anchor, but a distant crack that can eat up #3 and #3.5 camalots.

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By Nick Stayner
From: Billings, MT
Jul 29, 2006

It's easy to continue climbing up and over the formation to the rap anchors and belay from there. No gear needed!
By Darren O'Connor
Jun 20, 2011

This is one of my favorite City of Rocks climbs. While short, it has several bouldery crux moves down low, including some committing hand jams necessary for placing protection. I'm always grinning when I top this one out!

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