The north face of this seldom visited,secluded granite crag is chock full of juggy huecos and classic "city" patina. Most established lines are traditional, due to BLM sanctioning of no new bolts or anchors at this time. However, the 5.8 moderate clip up "Jug Massacre" is a must do for any climbing junky looking for a good pump on a really fun line. Morning and early afternoon shade.
For the adventurous. Refer to the Castle Rock climbing guide by Dave Bingham (check out Rock City for copies). The best approach is from the southeast/Johnson creek trail. Be prepared to be a bit creative on this "trail". 30-45 minutes from the castle rock parking lot.
Browse More Classics in Jug Wall
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Jug Wall:
Ode to Doda 5.8 R Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet
Jug Massacre 5.8+ Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet
Featured Route For Jug Wall
Jug Massacre 5.8+ ID : Castle Rocks : ... : Jug Wall
As the name implies, this route is crazy, juggy, hueco goodness just waiting to be slayed by your climbing prowess. The first crux between the first and second bolt feels a bit bouldery, while the second crux is up high and involves a fun deadpoint (height dependent). Overall, this route is super fun and worth the hike in my book, if you are in to moderate sport climbing. ...[more] Browse More Classics in ID