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The Balcony
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Jug-or-Naut S 
Mini Me S 
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Jug-or-Naut 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Rich Strang
Page Views: 3,143
Submitted By: Anthony Stout on Apr 24, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (36)
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Brian, crushing the starting moves on Jug-or-Naut

Description 

Follow the steep jugs up steep overhanging rock. A really nice route, crux is the first half of the route, after that, the grade mellows. Fun movement.

Location 

Not in the main area of The Balcony, but go right (south) past the lower angle climbs, to the rightmost block. You cant miss the large overhanging cobblestone with chalked jugs and bolts.

Protection 

5 bolts to anchors.


Photos of Jug-or-Naut Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Brie-Anne on Jug-or-Naught.
Brie-Anne on Jug-or-Naught.
Rock Climbing Photo: Jen Hoffman working between the third and fourth b...
Jen Hoffman working between the third and fourth b...
Rock Climbing Photo: Just past fourth bolt (crux) of Jug-or-Naut.
Just past fourth bolt (crux) of Jug-or-Naut.

Comments on Jug-or-Naut Add Comment
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By ScottCThompson
May 12, 2009
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Stickclipping the first bolt may be a good idea for leaders at their limit. Otherwise climb above the bolt to the huge jug and clip from there, where it's also possible to clip the second as well.
By J tot
From: Tempe, AZ
Jun 13, 2010

The twin 11s of Jug-or-naut and Rodent Outhouse are pretty similar. If you do one, you might as well do the other. Jug-or-naut is at least a letter grade harder... fewer big jugs to shake out on.

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