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A 2 pitch route with a good crack first pitch and an fun airy 2nd pitch. I think this is named for the late English reggae man by the same name, rather than the brutal comic book-based Sylvester Stallone movie.
Look for the open book you'll climb on the first pitch. To get to this, climb up easy ground, place a 3" cam below a hand traverse left, then up fun thin hand cracks [5.8] with good stemming opportunity to blocky terrain with some rubble and a 2 bolt anchor. Ditch the rack on the anchor, and go up Pitch 2 with only quickdraws: Up and right (crux) on fun face climbing right of the arete, clipping 8 bolts on the way. Stay off the arete if you have dignity. This pitch is cool especially because you're way up high above the roaring river at Gilman.
I believe that you could just barely link the 2 pitches into a 59m single pitch with horrendous rope drag... but why?
Just past the 2nd tunnel on the left side... Start just left of ?? and a bolted dihedral where the rock almost reaches the road, identify an open book first pitch.
Descent: Rap twice with a single 60m rope, or one 60m double rope rappel to the dirt.
Cams 0.5" to 3" for the 1st pitch only.
2-bolt anchors at the 1st and 2nd belays, both are equipped for rappelling.
In the middle section of the first pitch of Judge ...
Looking up the second pitch of Judge Dread. The c...
|By Jason Halladay|
From: Los Alamos, NM
Nov 4, 2007
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- VS 4c
This is a fun climb mixing up the trad and sport disciplines. The first pitch (gear pitch) felt no harder than 5.8 and protected well with medium cams (.75, 1 and 2 BDs). The second pitch is enjoyable, well-protected face climbing on small edges.
|By Chris Wenker|
From: Santa Fe
Feb 23, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
Tread lightly on this one. One of my partners pulled holds off of both the first and second pitches.
Which, given the climb's position above the road, could be ugly. The softball-sized rock that came off the second pitch actually bounced off the 1st belay ledge and then hit the road, about only a minute after a shiny new Jeep had driven by....