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Judge Dread 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 199'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Marc Beverly
Page Views: 581
Submitted By: George Perkins on Sep 18, 2007

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Near the top of the first pitch one can move left ...

Description 

A 2-pitch route with a good crack first pitch and an fun airy bolted 2nd pitch.

Look for the open book you'll climb on the first pitch. To get to this, climb up easy ground, place a 3" cam, hand traverse left to the open book. This corner has fun thin hand cracks [5.8] with some blocky terrain and rubble at its top. Belay at the 2-bolt anchor. Ditch the rack on the anchor, and go up Pitch 2 with only quickdraws. Pitch 2 goes up and right on fun face climbing right of the arete, passing 8 bolts. Stay off the arete if you have dignity. This pitch has great exposure high above the roaring river at Gilman.

I believe that you could just barely link the 2 pitches into a 59m single pitch with horrendous rope drag... but why?

Location 

Just past the 2nd tunnel on the left side... Start just left of ?? and a bolted dihedral where the rock almost reaches the road, identify an open book first pitch.

Descent: Rap twice with a single 60m rope, or one 60m double rope rappel to the dirt.

Protection 

Cams 0.5" to 3" for the 1st pitch only.
2-bolt anchors at the 1st and 2nd belays, both are equipped for rappelling.


Photos of Judge Dread Slideshow Add Photo
In the middle section of the first pitch of Judge Dread.
In the middle section of the first pitch of Judge ...
Looking up the second pitch of Judge Dread.  The crux of the pitch for us was right off the belay.
Looking up the second pitch of Judge Dread. The c...

Comments on Judge Dread Add Comment
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By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Nov 4, 2007
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

This is a fun climb mixing up the trad and sport disciplines. The first pitch (gear pitch) felt no harder than 5.8 and protected well with medium cams (.75, 1 and 2 BDs). The second pitch is enjoyable, well-protected face climbing on small edges.
By Chris Wenker
From: Santa Fe
Feb 23, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Tread lightly on this one. One of my partners pulled holds off of both the first and second pitches.
Which, given the climb's position above the road, could be ugly. The softball-sized rock that came off the second pitch actually bounced off the 1st belay ledge and then hit the road, about only a minute after a shiny new Jeep had driven by....