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Earl headed up Jude
The difficult part of this climb is the bouldery moves down low over a roof. The climbing eases off a bit after that but becomes run out to the bolts. Clipping the 3rd bolt could be pretty scary if you aren't in a good stance as there may be groundfall potential.
Per Scott's comments I've edited the route description to no longer reflect the R rating that this climb used to carry as it has been retrobolted to be a safer lead. Thanks Scott.
Just left of the large roof of death Fall Wall.
7 bolts - bolt anchor located at top of cliff.
By Scott Coldiron
From: Spokane, WA
May 22, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Two bolts have been added and this is now a very safe sports lead, and one of the best 11's in the area. Thank you bolting fairy! I'm usually not in favor of adding bolts to existing climbs but: 1. It was not common for Jude to be climbed ground up (practically never got done as far as I can tell. 2. Gear placements look nonexistent or at least super thin and crappy. 3. Nobody brings gear to this crag.