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Juan Valdez 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: paul wonsavage 11/96
Page Views: 1,640
Submitted By: lee hansche on May 16, 2007
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (40)
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Perking?...I think they mean Perky
Note: New route moratorium area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Start in the corner right of 100% Columbian (5.11c). Follow good holds up and left to gain a layback flake.
The crux is high up the flake as you get a little pumped. Get on top of the flake and head for the chains.

This climb felt a bit hard at the grade for me (though the only time I climbed it was finishing off a hard day, but I have friends that have it dialed and they seem to find the grade to be right on.
Fun times close to the parking lot.


Location 

Just right of 100% Columbian, 5.11c, starting in the corner and heading up and left in to the big flake.


Protection 

5 bolts to quick clips.



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By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Apr 19, 2009

Since I didn't see it mentioned, the first moves are somewhat thin... easy to ignore if tall + strong. :)

By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Apr 19, 2009

I think thin may be a bit much for the description. If you miss the jug in that first move you will probably drop 3 or 4 feet to a ledge, but the first clip will keep you from going any further. That is assuming you scramble on to the ledge on the right first. If you're doing a direct start it may be a bit more interesting?

By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Apr 20, 2009

Looking at and reading the caption of your ??, I'm realizing we started to the left on a crimpy rail just left of the first bolt. The ledge was still wet from the day before. Doh!

By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Apr 20, 2009

makes sense. That i agree would be a little thin

By N Nelsen
From: Lincoln, NH
Jun 10, 2010

I tried this route two days ago for the first time. The opening moves proved bouldery for me at least (I'm 5'5" with a limiting wingspan), but the undercling section was very fun, despite wet conditions.

By Matt Wilson
From: Bethel, Vermont, USA
May 10, 2012

If your footwork is bad (or you simply don't trust your feet) then the undercling traverse will be your crux.

By Nick Grant
From: Natick, MA
Oct 6, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

No question that the opening moves are bouldery and inobvious. At the start, it looks easier than it is. However, if you are tall and have a long reach, it's not that bad.