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100% Columbian 
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Chloe's Breakfast Special 
Curly for President 
Dead Sea Equestrian 
Easily Amused 
Easily Aroused 
Egg McMeadows 
Glory Jean's 
Idiot's Deluxe 
Juan Valdez 
Mr. Coffee 
Red Sea Pedestrian 
Rise and Shine 
Rumor Has It 
Shealyn's Way 
Shemp Lives 
Squeeze My Lemon 

Juan Valdez 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: paul wonsavage 11/96
Page Views: 1,640
Submitted By: lee hansche on May 16, 2007
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (40)
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Perking?...I think they mean Perky
Note: New route moratorium area MORE INFO >>>


Start in the corner right of 100% Columbian (5.11c). Follow good holds up and left to gain a layback flake.
The crux is high up the flake as you get a little pumped. Get on top of the flake and head for the chains.

This climb felt a bit hard at the grade for me (though the only time I climbed it was finishing off a hard day, but I have friends that have it dialed and they seem to find the grade to be right on.
Fun times close to the parking lot.


Just right of 100% Columbian, 5.11c, starting in the corner and heading up and left in to the big flake.


5 bolts to quick clips.

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By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Apr 19, 2009

Since I didn't see it mentioned, the first moves are somewhat thin... easy to ignore if tall + strong. :)

By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Apr 19, 2009

I think thin may be a bit much for the description. If you miss the jug in that first move you will probably drop 3 or 4 feet to a ledge, but the first clip will keep you from going any further. That is assuming you scramble on to the ledge on the right first. If you're doing a direct start it may be a bit more interesting?

By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Apr 20, 2009

Looking at and reading the caption of your ??, I'm realizing we started to the left on a crimpy rail just left of the first bolt. The ledge was still wet from the day before. Doh!

By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Apr 20, 2009

makes sense. That i agree would be a little thin

By N Nelsen
From: Lincoln, NH
Jun 10, 2010

I tried this route two days ago for the first time. The opening moves proved bouldery for me at least (I'm 5'5" with a limiting wingspan), but the undercling section was very fun, despite wet conditions.

By Matt Wilson
From: Bethel, Vermont, USA
May 10, 2012

If your footwork is bad (or you simply don't trust your feet) then the undercling traverse will be your crux.

By Nick Grant
From: Natick, MA
Oct 6, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

No question that the opening moves are bouldery and inobvious. At the start, it looks easier than it is. However, if you are tall and have a long reach, it's not that bad.