By alkwok
From Claremont, CA
Feb 3, 2011
| (1) I am a little confused about Sphincter Quits. Tony B's route description here starts with "P!") which seems to imply there are 2 pitches. Tthe new Vogel guidebooks shows a 2-way horizontal arrow at the top of the thin crack section. I just head R after the think crack and join up with What's It to You and head up to the top, right?
(2) Looking for suggestions for other 9's/10a's routes in Real Hidden Valley besides:
Tumbling Rainbow, Gail Wind (next to Sail Away), Ball Bearing, Western Saga, Captain Kronos, Ride a Wild Bago (and the ones on Thin Wall and the Burrito). Any comments on lines on the E face of the Sentinel such as Hog Heaven, Hog Trough, etc?
Thanks!
Alfred | 
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By Richard Shore
Feb 3, 2011
| Only one pitch on Sphincter Quits.
Go do Broken Glass 10a! But sack up this time and lead it clean, Al, no more C0 bullshit.
Loose Lady and Dummys Delight are both great, both 10a, and side-by-side.
Fisticuffs and Run For Your Life, both 10b, also near one another.
I've heard good things about Magnetic Woose and also Robert's Crack, 10a/b and 10d, but haven't been out there myself. It's a longer approach. |
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By Fat Dad
From Los Angeles, CA
Feb 3, 2011
| There are two ways you can go on the upper half of the pitch: the thin crack on the right (far better) and up and left past a bolt, which is the way I think the right was originally done. Far more contrived and not nearly as good. Everything on that wall is half a rope length.
Though it's not .10a, you could try Burn Out on the Wailing Wall (.10b) and Jerry Brown (.10a) on the Brown Wall, though I think the bottom of Jerry Brown may be a bit run out before you can get good gear. You can easily (and legitimately) toprope an interesting .10d/11a from the top of both routes. |
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By Fat Dad
From Los Angeles, CA
Feb 4, 2011
| All the .10bs that have been recommended are good, but if you're only comfortable on .9/10a then tread lightly. Run For Your Life is awesome but it's kind of high to the first bolt, so you'll want to be comfortable at the grade. Also, Illusion Dweller is pretty long and the crux is near the top, so bailing would be kind of a pain.
Never bad to push yourself, but pick routes that are user friendly. |
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By Bryan G
From Yosemite
Feb 4, 2011
| Fat Dad wrote: All the .10bs that have been recommended are good, but if you're only comfortable on .9/10a then tread lightly. Run For Your Life is awesome but it's kind of high to the first bolt, so you'll want to be comfortable at the grade. Also, Illusion Dweller is pretty long and the crux is near the top, so bailing would be kind of a pain. Never bad to push yourself, but pick routes that are user friendly.
It's easy to hike up to the top though. Maybe get a belay from above to downclimb that 5.4 bit and then set up a TR.
Edit: on Illusion Dweller I mean, Run For Your Life is easily TR'd after leading Tumbling Rainbow. |
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By Will S
From Joshua Tree
Feb 4, 2011
| Ball Bearing, 10a
Championship Wrestling, 5.9
The Good, the Bad, & the Ugly 10a
Blue Nubian 10a
In the Pit 10a
Hog Trough: dirty, grainy, grovelly, slightly loose. People on Fote Hog/Saga/BB will wonder WTF you're doing...and so will you. |
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By Fat Dad
From Los Angeles, CA
Feb 4, 2011
| Bryan Gohn wrote: It's easy to hike up to the top though. Maybe get a belay from above to downclimb that 5.4 bit and then set up a TR. Edit: on Illusion Dweller I mean, Run For Your Life is easily TR'd after leading Tumbling Rainbow.
Yeah, but the goal should be to lead these, not TR them because you're not good enough to lead them. Sure people do that, but it's not a style to emulate, especially if you're trying to get better.
Edit: Will S, have you done the Good Bad & Ugly? Classic sandbag. |
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By Randy
Feb 7, 2011
| Jerry Brown is excellent. (5.10a)
Ball Bearing is excellent. (5.10a)
Illusion Dweller is excellent (5.10a/b)
Western Saga is quite good. (5.9)
Savwafare Ist Everywhere is very good and sustained (5.8+)
Ride A Wild Bago is good and it is right next to Sphincter Quits (5.10a)
Broken Glass is OK (5.10a) |
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By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From Bend, OR
Feb 7, 2011
| I seem to recall Jerry Brown is a sandbag at 10a..... |
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By Will S
From Joshua Tree
Feb 7, 2011
| Fat Dad wrote: Edit: Will S, have you done the Good Bad & Ugly? Classic sandbag.
A few times, didn't find it sandbagged at all, thought the rating was spot on. Two move crux, no heavy breathing or full body pump. |
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By Nick Barczak
Feb 7, 2011
| both The Good, Bad and the Ugly
and Jerry Brown feel about 5.10a. Not sure about any sandbag there. |
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By Fat Dad
From Los Angeles, CA
Feb 8, 2011
| Will S wrote: A few times, didn't find it sandbagged at all, thought the rating was spot on. Two move crux, no heavy breathing or full body pump.
Are we thinking about the same route? On the Wart? Most find that o/w to be nasty. There was even a supertopo thread on it. Maybe I'm just light. |
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By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From Bend, OR
Feb 11, 2011
| Ryan Kelly wrote: Leaping Leaner, an area classic. That's hysterical.
For RHV, sure it's a classic. Sort of ;) |
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By Fat Dad
From Los Angeles, CA
Feb 11, 2011
| Ryan Kelly wrote: Leaping Leaner, an area classic. That's hysterical.
I did that eons ago when I was 14, in other words a long time ago. Even then I don't remember thinking it anything special.
Edit: Oops. I just checked and the route I was thinking of was Jumping Jehosophat. My bad. |
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