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Super Bowl Wall
Routes Sorted
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Back in the Saddle S 
Everest 201 S 
Fallout aka Disintegration S 
Hamster Forever S 
Higher, Harder One, The S 
JP's Variation S 
More Obsessive Tendencies S 
Sick at 17000 S 
Simple Simon S 
Smash the Poser S 
Texas Chosspile S 
Where's My Sherpa? T 

JP's Variation 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 37'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Jeff Pedersen
Page Views: 510
Submitted By: John Ross on Jan 23, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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BETA PHOTO: Super Bowl Wall 1 Hamster Forever 5.10a 2 Where's...

Description 

One bolt variation to Back in the Saddle, originally created to be an easier start but ended up being slightly harder. The crux is the first few moves. Match on the starting hold, reach for a left-hand crimp, then a right-hand slanting rail. A couple more crimpers, then get your feet set and throw high to a jug. The angle then eases a little but save some gas for the finish.

Location 

Fourth route from the left on Super Bowl Wall. Starts left of Back in the Saddle and joins it at the second bolt.

Protection 

6 bolts to chain anchors. Stick-clipping the first bolt helps protect a fall off of the belay ledge.


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By tenesmus
Dec 19, 2009

This is a really fun warmup. Do that mungy .9 to the left and then this one before moving to the steeper stuff. No throwing necessary if you lock off low on the jugs and hike your feet first.