Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Super Bowl Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Back in the Saddle 
Everest 201 
Fallout aka Disintegration 
Hamster Forever 
Higher, Harder One, The 
JP's Variation 
More Obsessive Tendencies 
Sick at 17000 
Simple Simon 
Smash the Poser 
Texas Chosspile 
Where's My Sherpa? 

JP's Variation 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 37'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Jeff Pedersen
Page Views: 484
Submitted By: John Ross on Jan 23, 2009
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
BETA PHOTO: Super Bowl Wall

1 Hamster Forever 5.10a
2 ...

Description 

One bolt variation to Back in the Saddle, originally created to be an easier start but ended up being slightly harder. The crux is the first few moves. Match on the starting hold, reach for a left-hand crimp, then a right-hand slanting rail. A couple more crimpers, then get your feet set and throw high to a jug. The angle then eases a little but save some gas for the finish.


Location 

Fourth route from the left on Super Bowl Wall. Starts left of Back in the Saddle and joins it at the second bolt.


Protection 

6 bolts to chain anchors. Stick-clipping the first bolt helps protect a fall off of the belay ledge.



Comments on JP's Variation Add Comment
Show which comments
By tenesmus
Dec 19, 2009

This is a really fun warmup. Do that mungy .9 to the left and then this one before moving to the steeper stuff. No throwing necessary if you lock off low on the jugs and hike your feet first.