JP's Variation 5.11a
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 37 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11a [details] |
| FA: | Jeff Pedersen |
| Submitted By: | John Ross on Jan 23, 2009 |
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Description One bolt variation to Back in the Saddle, originally created to be an easier start but ended up being slightly harder. The crux is the first few moves. Match on the starting hold, reach for a left-hand crimp, then a right-hand slanting rail. A couple more crimpers, then get your feet set and throw high to a jug. The angle then eases a little but save some gas for the finish.
Location Fourth route from the left on Super Bowl Wall. Starts left of Back in the Saddle and joins it at the second bolt.
Protection 6 bolts to chain anchors. Stick-clipping the first bolt helps protect a fall off of the belay ledge.
| Comments on JP's Variation |
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By tenesmus
Dec 19, 2009
| This is a really fun warmup. Do that mungy .9 to the left and then this one before moving to the steeper stuff. No throwing necessary if you lock off low on the jugs and hike your feet first. |
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