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Mount Indefatigable
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Joy T 
Shining Path, The T 

Joy 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 10 pitches, 2000'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: 
Season: Summer to early Fall
Page Views: 10,426
Submitted By: Jordan Ramey on Jun 23, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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The dihedral sure isn't small.

Description 


Approach: 45 minutes
Climb: 3 - 6 hours
Descent: 1.5 - 3 hours
Car-to-Car: 5 - 9 hours
Sun: late morning through afternoon


Joy follows the incredibly striking right facing dihedral up the Mt. Indefatigable slab for nearly 2000 feet (300m)of climbing! The rock is generally very solid with excellent friction. The numerous small ledges do tend to accumulate rocks, so be wary, especially in early season. There are many very nice belays to choose from on almost every pitch. Some take a 70m rope to reach (or just a bit of simul on easy ground with a 60m). Basically, climb until you hit the end of the rope on every pitch then build a belay at the best spot. A topo is completely unnecessary for this climb, as it's impossible to get lost.

The route difficulty can vary widely from 5.4 to 5.8 depending on the line chosen. The rule of thumb is, if it's hard head horizontally from where you are. The new guidebook Canadian Rock: Select Climbs of the West calls the route 5.8. I'd say that's only true if you stay in the dihedral the entire time and purposefully avoid the slab.

The route is all gear anchors with VERY minimal fixed gear (6 pieces in 10 pitches in summer 2011).

Driving Directions, Approach, & Descent 

From Calgary:
Take Kananaskis Trail/AB-40 S for 50.0 km
Turn right onto Smith Dorrien Trail/Hwy 742 for 2.2 km
Slight left onto Kananaskis Lakes Trail for 7.6 km
Turn right to stay on Kananaskis Lakes Trail for 3.6 km
Slight left to stay on Kananaskis Lakes Trail
Park at the Interlakes Parking Area

or Google "Kananaskis Interlakes Campground" and it'll pull up right near the lake parking area.

Approach
Hike across the dam and follow the main hikers trail that parallels he lake. Do not go up past the bear closure sign on the summit trail. The approach trail is pretty flat all the way to the scree slope when the route becomes very apparent. Don't follow any smaller offshoot trails that head downhill to the lakeshore, just follow the signs with hiker symbols on them. It's pretty straightforward. 25 minutes to scree slope from car. Head up the scree to the base of the route.

Climb the large SUPER OBVIOUS dihedral. If the rock is good, it's the right dihedral. First few hundred feet can be easily walked up / solo'd

Descent
From the top of Joy, scramble up the ridge for a little bit until a very nice looking scree area presents itself on the east (climbers right). Drop onto that faint trail and follow it up on the east side of the ridge to get around the super steep gully. There is one short section of 4th class near the top marked by a HUGE cairn. From here there are two options.

Option 1: curve around the gully and proceed down the best looking scree gully, about the 3rd one. Follow this all the way back down to the trail. Be careful of sending rocks onto your partner. It's not nearly as casual as the Yam Scree Ski, but not bad.

Option 2: traverse alpine meadows across a small ridge and up onto the main hikers summit trail on the next ridge. Be very bear wary since this trail is decommissioned due to grizzly activity. Follow the donkey trail back down to the parking lot.

Protection 

Double set of cams from tiny to #1 red camalot (2"), single #2 yellow camalot (2.5"), a couple nuts, and a couple extra finger sized cams are nice depending on comfort level (0.3-0.75 camalots being the most useful). Slings.

Basically the route eats #0.3 - #0.75 cams and the rest is necessary here and there.


Photos of Joy Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pano shot high on Joy
Pano shot high on Joy
Rock Climbing Photo: The south summit ridge after topping out Joy. Head...
The south summit ridge after topping out Joy. Head...
Rock Climbing Photo: 2 climbers seconding with the initial pitches spil...
2 climbers seconding with the initial pitches spil...
Rock Climbing Photo: Joy!
Joy!
Rock Climbing Photo: Joy (5.6, 10 pitches, Mt. Indefatigable). Follow t...
BETA PHOTO: Joy (5.6, 10 pitches, Mt. Indefatigable). Follow t...
Rock Climbing Photo: Trail off the ridge of Joy. This is what you're lo...
BETA PHOTO: Trail off the ridge of Joy. This is what you're lo...
Rock Climbing Photo: Joy and The Shining Path approach and scree descen...
Joy and The Shining Path approach and scree descen...
Rock Climbing Photo: Joy and The Shining Path approach and descent. Bea...
BETA PHOTO: Joy and The Shining Path approach and descent. Bea...
Rock Climbing Photo: Nate about to set off.
Nate about to set off.
Rock Climbing Photo: Coming down the scree shoot after climbing Joy (20...
Coming down the scree shoot after climbing Joy (20...
Rock Climbing Photo: Climber on the lower section of Joy
Climber on the lower section of Joy

Comments on Joy Add Comment
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By Brad Warne
From: Calgary, Alberta
Oct 19, 2015

Just did the route for a second time. This time we picked the 3rd descent gully (previously did the 2nd). The 3rd is the way to go! From the time we packed up all the gear and started down, to the time back to the car was 1/2hr. Definitely the best option
By Mitch Guichon
Jun 28, 2016

Climbed the route last week, fantastic line with great exposure.

Gear recommendation was pretty on point. Although, if you bring triples of anything, extra 0.3-0.5 cams would have been nice to have. I'd recommend some tricams (pink/red) if you have em, I think I placed one on every pitch

In addition to the standard rockies choss, noticed some loose microwave-sized blocks ~100ft from the finish as the slab narrows for the last time.

We saw a big friendly grizzly right as we left the parking lot as we finished. Definitely take bear spray for the approach, even though it is short!

Happy climbing
By David Kay
Jul 21, 2016

This was a super fun route and I highly recommend the climb! We climbed it on Sunday July 10th 2016.

I will note it took much longer than expected(11 hours car to car) due to running out of gear before stretching my full 70m rope which caused me to make this about 14 pitches. Ive been climbing for 12 years but only recently started doing multi pitch.(About 20 multi pitch routes life to date)

Gear: Three micro cams, Three .3 camlots, doubles of .4 to #2 camlot and a set of nuts. I recommend bringing enough runners for each placement to save some major rope drag.

This climb eats .3's all day long. Next time I will bring triples of .3 to .5 along with doubles up to #2 again+nuts+micro's. The route had old rusted fixed pins about every 120 ft or so in the dihedral.


Alarm to base of climb:
My partner and I woke up 4am sharp at the Alpine Club of Canada Hostel in Canmore AB. It was about an hour and a half drive to get to the trail head. Once you get to the GPS location of the campground veer left and uphill for the lake parking area because going right will just take you around the camping loop. Start by walking towards then over the small dam and take the main(upper) trail past 2 benches. The hike is pretty easy with a little up and down but only took us about 25 minutes to the scree slope then another 15 minutes walking to the base. The woods will clear and you will see the obvious mountain on your right. We dropped our bag here to avoid climbing the scree slope for a second time which was definitely worth it.

The Climb:
The first 150ft was very easy and we climbed it in hiking shoes. I'm sure most people solo up to 300 ft or more but we were taking it safe.

The first 400 ft was low angle and more of a technical hike. I wandered on the face a coupe times for some very easy climbing. The dihedral produces a beautiful finger seam making it always easy to build an anchor as long as you have .3 through.5 camlots.

We thought we were "almost there" twice but then when we were able to see higher we could see the slab continued on. Stay close to the dihedral until the very top. Once coming over the top there is a good place to sit and belay. I found the scree trail to the right a little sketchy feeling because of so much loose rock. Decided to walk it still on belay, placing a couple pieces of gear and make one more anchor. When I do this again with my girl i'm going to build an anchor at the top of the 4th class to make it a little more safe for her.

Decent:
We followed the trail down the first meadow immediately after the 4th class instead of going up and over another ridge. This was not the right one per the guide and ended up walking through the woods a few times. It was not a horrible decent but there was not much of a trail so i'm sure the other ways are better.



Rock Climbing Photo: Half way up working that dihedral.
Half way up working that dihedral.

Rock Climbing Photo: Before you get to high up take a look back at the ...
Before you get to high up take a look back at the lake. The reflection is amazing.


Rock Climbing Photo: Wandered on the face for some easy 5.5 climbing a ...
Wandered on the face for some easy 5.5 climbing a few times throughout the route.


Rock Climbing Photo: The top of the slab before starting the loose scre...
The top of the slab before starting the loose scree walk.


Rock Climbing Photo: This is the wrong descent.  We followed the trail ...
This is the wrong descent. We followed the trail down immediately after the 4th class. Not much of a trail but turned out ok.


Rock Climbing Photo: We walked a little further past this point on the ...
We walked a little further past this point on the trail for a less steep walk up the scree to the base. Then followed the dihedral all the way up(Left of the red line)

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