|Type:||Trad, 10 pitches, 2000'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]|
|Season:||Summer to early Fall|
|Submitted By:||Jordan Ramey on Jun 23, 2011|
|Comments on Joy||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Brad Warne
From: Calgary, Alberta
Oct 19, 2015
|Just did the route for a second time. This time we picked the 3rd descent gully (previously did the 2nd). The 3rd is the way to go! From the time we packed up all the gear and started down, to the time back to the car was 1/2hr. Definitely the best option|
By Mitch Guichon
Jun 28, 2016
Climbed the route last week, fantastic line with great exposure.
Gear recommendation was pretty on point. Although, if you bring triples of anything, extra 0.3-0.5 cams would have been nice to have. I'd recommend some tricams (pink/red) if you have em, I think I placed one on every pitch
In addition to the standard rockies choss, noticed some loose microwave-sized blocks ~100ft from the finish as the slab narrows for the last time.
We saw a big friendly grizzly right as we left the parking lot as we finished. Definitely take bear spray for the approach, even though it is short!
By David Kay
Jul 21, 2016
This was a super fun route and I highly recommend the climb! We climbed it on Sunday July 10th 2016.
I will note it took much longer than expected(11 hours car to car) due to running out of gear before stretching my full 70m rope which caused me to make this about 14 pitches. Ive been climbing for 12 years but only recently started doing multi pitch.(About 20 multi pitch routes life to date)
Gear: Three micro cams, Three .3 camlots, doubles of .4 to #2 camlot and a set of nuts. I recommend bringing enough runners for each placement to save some major rope drag.
This climb eats .3's all day long. Next time I will bring triples of .3 to .5 along with doubles up to #2 again+nuts+micro's. The route had old rusted fixed pins about every 120 ft or so in the dihedral.
Alarm to base of climb:
My partner and I woke up 4am sharp at the Alpine Club of Canada Hostel in Canmore AB. It was about an hour and a half drive to get to the trail head. Once you get to the GPS location of the campground veer left and uphill for the lake parking area because going right will just take you around the camping loop. Start by walking towards then over the small dam and take the main(upper) trail past 2 benches. The hike is pretty easy with a little up and down but only took us about 25 minutes to the scree slope then another 15 minutes walking to the base. The woods will clear and you will see the obvious mountain on your right. We dropped our bag here to avoid climbing the scree slope for a second time which was definitely worth it.
The first 150ft was very easy and we climbed it in hiking shoes. I'm sure most people solo up to 300 ft or more but we were taking it safe.
The first 400 ft was low angle and more of a technical hike. I wandered on the face a coupe times for some very easy climbing. The dihedral produces a beautiful finger seam making it always easy to build an anchor as long as you have .3 through.5 camlots.
We thought we were "almost there" twice but then when we were able to see higher we could see the slab continued on. Stay close to the dihedral until the very top. Once coming over the top there is a good place to sit and belay. I found the scree trail to the right a little sketchy feeling because of so much loose rock. Decided to walk it still on belay, placing a couple pieces of gear and make one more anchor. When I do this again with my girl i'm going to build an anchor at the top of the 4th class to make it a little more safe for her.
We followed the trail down the first meadow immediately after the 4th class instead of going up and over another ridge. This was not the right one per the guide and ended up walking through the woods a few times. It was not a horrible decent but there was not much of a trail so i'm sure the other ways are better.
This is the wrong descent. We followed the trail down immediately after the 4th class. Not much of a trail but turned out ok.