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 ADVANCED
The Slab Wall
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Bugs Are Bad, The T 
Cloak + Dagger T,S 
Hellraiser S 
Hunting Unicorns With Hand Grenades T 
Joy Ride T,S 
Left Arete T 
Left Arete variation finish T 
No Bolts Please T 
People of the Sun T,S 
Silver Dollar TR 
Stolen S 
Syd's Slab T,S 

Joy Ride 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 755
Submitted By: mr. mystery on May 7, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Lincoln Tetherly on Joy Ride 5.9-

Description 

This route was probably a trad route at some time. It has been bolted due to questionable gear in the cracks (can still be done on trad for a rush!)Climb up horizontal cracks with opportunity for good finger sized cams, or run it out to the first bolt. Follow 5.6-7 climbing to the forth bolt. Pull the final crux mantle move (5.8+) to the chain anchors.


Location 

Slab Wall


Protection 

Cams, 4 bolts to Chain Anchors



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By chinos
Jun 18, 2009
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The best warm up and intro to climbing at the den

By joshua corbett
From: Wolfeboro NH
Sep 26, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Its perfect the way it is.

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Sep 27, 2010

It sounds like you guys need to start by digging deeper to see if you can find out the history of the route. Who first lead it? What do they think? Maybe they agreed on the retro or even did it them self. After really asking around, if nobody knows the history, what is the consensus of other users of the area?

By joshua corbett
From: Wolfeboro NH
Sep 27, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Hay Mark,There are not to many people to ask about the history,There are a few locals that have put the bolts up like chinos and jim dickson.The erliest person that I know that have climed hear is Loran Smith back in the 80's but other than that i think it's been undescovered till a few years ago and thats why alot of the FA's were left blank.

Patrick,the reson why the bolts were put in was due to questionable rock,they were affraid of the gear braking out.You might want to send chinos (jon) an e-mail or something.He would know best.
Joshua

By patrick donahue
From: Gunnison, Colorado
Sep 27, 2010

yah i dont mean no harm i was just wondering everyones views on retro bolting and what was the reason for changing it to a bolted route

By chinos
Oct 10, 2010
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Hey Patrick, do you know who first did the route? like josh was saying, i grew up around here and know only a few local climbers who started climbing around the area in the late 90's and Loran from the late 70's and 80's. a few anchors showed up on top of the cliff and seemed to be in places for top rope access (just hangers). i will gladly chop any bolts placed in the wrong and will give credit where credit is due.

with a lack of people to ask it is hard to know the history of the area. I have started a guidebook with all the local crags and the 120+ routes we have done over the years. If you can provide some info to help write an accurate history to prevent any further problems it would be greatly appreciated. i will be coming by the brewster barn to get info for a write up on Brewster's Outdoor Club. All of this info will be included in a southern nh guide coming soon.

after the bolts are chopped you can be the first to lead it!

P.S., if you have a problem in the future contact me personally so we can resolve it without the public embarrassment. i don't agree with retro bolting without permission of the FA party, and don't want to be known as one who does so.