Joy and Tribulation
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Climbing above "severely mangled fixed pin" on pit...
Begin up around the corner to the left from the start of Melvin's Wheel at a prominent, left-angling crack.
P1 Climb the crack (and the face below it 5.7) for about 40 feet until it is possible to do a steep move or two up to the right (5.8) and around the corner onto the face. Work into and up a left-facing corner and belay.
P2 Climb up to the ancient bolt, and then head up the slab a bit. I got a couple decent but not totally bomber TCUs in a flaring crack. Then, with your feet at the level of the TCUs, work right across the slab (5.9) and into an easy crack system. Follow this all the way up to the large ledge. Move the belay over to the bottom of the obvious steep chimney.
P3 Climb up past a severely mangled fixed pin and into the chimney. Squeeze past the bottom of the wide slot on the left to a stance, the step right across the chimney to a great finger crack. Stem and finger lock your way up to the roof, which is passed on the left side. Continue to the bolted rap anchor (around the corner to the left at the top).
P3 is a fantastic, steep, and intimidating lead. Solid for the grade, strenuous, and fun. Mix this with the Original Fantasy Ridge to bypass the dicey 5.9 on P2.
Standard Lumpy rack. TCUs useful on P2.
BETA PHOTO: The chimney pitch.
BETA PHOTO: Start of the route. Taken 11/7/2004.
Stemming just before switching cracks. This is st...
BETA PHOTO: Joy and Tribulation overview.
Joe is following the final fun chimney section on ...
CM leading the 1st pitch.
Second pitch near the end.
Starting the exquisite chimney pitch.
Approaching the roof.
Stemming at the roof.
BETA PHOTO: The chimney.
|Comments on Joy and Tribulation
|By Scott Conner|
From: Lyons, CO
Jun 14, 2004
Much has already been said about P2 on the Fantasy Ridge page; I'll only add that the cam placements in the crack above the bolt seemed solid. You can get blue, green AND yellow Aliens in the same crack. Yes, I plugged in all three.
P3 is a fantastic crack pitch. Steep and sustained with great pro. This pitch is pushing 5.9, IMO.
|By Kevin Currigan|
Jun 20, 2005
The ancient bolt has been replaced by a nice new one. I felt pretty good about the pro in the flaring crack above the bolt on P2. However, by the time I traversed right I was 10 feet above it-yikes! P3 for the second is a gas. Punching in gear on lead was pretty pumpy for my leader. Both of us felt P3 was .9. P2 was much easier. I really liked this route!
|By Kevin Currigan|
Jun 30, 2005
I climbed this route again and found if the chimney is climbed using chimneying (sp?) technique a couple of hands free rests can be had, and it was much less stressful than the 1st time climbing it as a slab/crack. The section of the climb mentioned is above the climber in the photo.
|By Leo Paik|
From: Westminster, Colorado
Jul 16, 2006
rating: 5.9 PG13
Bit o' beta: You can protect P3 with #3 Camalot & smaller, double #1 & #2 are useful, unless you brought hexes. Feet to the big, sloping ledge before you move to the R crack. It's not nearly as hard as it looks. Definitely fun & worth the effort.
Anyone know where is the Alpinisten Chimney?
|By Dane Casterson|
Oct 11, 2007
The chimney pitch is absolutely amazing! In the wide section down low there is currently a fixed #3 Camalot just left of the scary pin.
|By Guy H.|
From: Fort Collins CO
May 18, 2008
The 3rd pitch is one of the top ten 5.9 pitches at Lumpy. It has everything from bomber hands, stemming, face, and a few chimney moves.
Jan 27, 2010
I'd second comments that think the third pitch is 5.9. It felt a lot like Conads to me.
|By Luke Clarke|
Aug 14, 2011
One of the beta photos incorrectly depicts the first and second pitch. The narrative description gives the best option. Move right out out of the slanting crack at about 30 feet above the ground and on to the face. You can continue up the wide slanting crack through short brushy sections but then you would miss the bolted slab. I have done it both ways and the slab is not to be missed (while the bushes are). My 2 cents.