Journey to a Mushroom Planet 

the fixed gear was removed from this climb so that folks could lead it while placing gear (i hope some day i can too) as far as i know those who wished to, have sent it... i need to work it so i fixed gear on it today and plan to leave it up for a while so me and anyone who wants can work it with gear in place... if my gear is in the way let me know and i will remove it...

i forgot to bring webbing for the thread that is normally the second clip so right now i have a solid nut in a slightly less perfect location which ill replace with webbing next time im on it...which will be soon...

The first placement was two nuts, one has blown out so now there is only one nut for the first piece. The other nut remains dangling from the carabiner.

there used to be a more elaberate set up on the first piece... when i put the gear back in recently i just put another nut in next to the nasty stuck piece just incase... just put the other nut in and go for it... it looked good when i left it... it prolly just got knocked loose from use...

Yeah, it popped when I fell making the 3rd move.

All of my gear is gone from the route...

if some one took the gear down for ethical purposes thats cool cause i agree that it looks better as a nice clean crack to go at fully trad style... i hope however that the ethics of this person also include getting my gear back to me...

my name is lee hansche and i work at vertical dreams climbing gym in manchester 603-625-6919... i think i had 4or5 nuts and 3or4 draws and a few biners on the route... it all adds up to $$$...

Bummer man, hope your gear gets returned.

i hear that my gear was taken by the same person or persons who took the ladder down at waimea, for ethical purposes... as far as the gear goes, as i said before i just want it back... ill keep my ethical opinions to my self...

Lee--

Did you ever get your gear back?

oh yeah sorry i should have posted this before... i did get my gear back... i decided not to fix gear on it again cause i had other routes i wanted to climb... and didnt feel like playing in the "ethics battle" any more...

What gear does this route take?

it takes a handful of nuts and or small cams... last i looked there was fixed gear up again...

bummer... do have any idea weather its dry or not at the moment?

id guess its wet but im not sure... its usually wet when things are wet...

ok so i was reading the old rumney guide that jay put up on the forum. i came across this route ( one of only 2 routes on this wall at the time!) any ways this was, back then, only aided! and i the caption read.... aid up the 120 degree crack could this be a future 5.14? ..... first i thought that was great! i love seeing how climbing has come so far! second does any one think i would be frowned apon/scolded/yelled at for aiding JTMP? lol =)

Mike, It's funny how standards evolve.

As for aiding the route, I don't think it would be a problem. Of course, don't pound any pins. If you aid it clean on nuts and cams, no one should have a problem with it. You could check it out for your future free ascent.

sweet! thanks jay!

According to the new guidebook, "Due to bombproof stopper placements, it is a popular practice clean-aid climb (C1). If you do aid the climb, please leave the fixed nuts in place for the 'free' climbers to hang from" (p. 121).

as of last week there was only 1 fixed nut and it was right off the ground...

I saw that yesterday, it probably could not be removed by the ethical cleaners. Perhaps this is not so bad as it leaves a positive, "Jesus Nut" to start with. I definitely plan on aiding this once I pick up a chest harness that fits.