Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Second Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Angles Away 
Back for Seconds 
Big Top project 
Chucky Cheese 
Johnny Rotten 
Journey through Gwondonaland 
Left End Corners 
Needs a Bolt 
Slap Happy 
Whatever 
Unsorted Routes:

Journey through Gwondonaland 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type: Trad, 2 pitches, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jimmy Newberry & John Rosholt
Page Views: 1,673
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Jan 1, 2005
Good Page?0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Add Photo Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

On the far right (climber's right) side of the second buttress, there is a distinct nearly straight shot crack system that goes through a small roof and blanks out on a superb slab. Both pitches are challenging with the 2nd pitch through the roof being the actual crux.

The 1st pitch starts out somewhat awkwardly in a acute angle slot.It quickly becomes funtastic climbing to a belay 15' below the little roof at a big traversing ledge. The belay anchor can be set to the right or the left of the route. I personally prefer the climber's left side as the ledge is a bit more comfortable.

The next pitch is so fine! 15' of super crack climbing leads to a roof with great moves and wild positioning. Now, swallow hard and head up the headwall slab for the rest of the pitch. This stretch feels way out there but is really moderate. The climbing eases way up but so does the pro. It is a long run to the trees on top so you probably wont take this stretch for granted but there is no reason to get hurt. Descend by hiking around back to the right and down.


Protection 

As per most Taylor Canyon routes A single rack from small wires to a 2.5 or 3 Cam. This route takes pro nicely.



Comments on Journey through Gwondonaland Add Comment
Show which comments
By Anonymous Coward
Jun 20, 2005

Awesome route. I think it's 5.9 though.

By Anonymous Coward
Jun 21, 2005

Curious if the name isn't:"Journey Through Gondwanaland"

Gondwanaland being the name of the ancient supercontinent that included South America, Africa, and India.

Gwondonaland looks like an accidental botching of that rather than an intentional word choice...

By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 21, 2005

This is not the only route named Gwondonnaland! The following link may help or further confuse the issue.

www.climbingredrocks.com/rock/db/mt__wilson/horseshoe_wall/g>>>

By phil broscovak
Jun 23, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

There are indeed two areas of the globe that were once part of the same paleocontinent. One area refered to as Gondwana is related to the current Indian sub continent. The other area known to this day as Gondwona [the New Zealand region is called Gwondona]. No jacked up spelling here. Thanx George for referencing the Red Rocks web link as a clarification.

By aaron voreis
Sep 15, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Both belays have bolted anchors which are used for the airy (1 60m barely makes it) rappel off of this fantastic route. The second 5.8 pitch is as good as any pitch I have ever done.

By YDPL8S
From: Santa Monica, Ca.
Jan 28, 2009

What do you remember Phil? I know I did the 1st pitch of this in about '79 with that British climber that lived in Crested Butte (can't remember his name). The whole gang was working on this, but I don't remember who actually got the F.A. I think the Dawson brothers even spent some time on it. What does Leo's book say?

By phil broscovak
Feb 2, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Unfortunately Johnny Rotten can't answer questions. But Tom and Jimmy can. Jimmy told me he had worked on the FA with Rosholt. It is extremely likely Tom was there on the sharp end.

By Aaron Brown
From: Gypsum, CO
Mar 28, 2009

This route can be done in one long pitch. Instead of stepping left to the firs belay continue straight up the corner then face climb up and right to a rusty set of chains. One double length rappel gets you down.

By AdamFerro
Apr 8, 2010

The actual name is Journey through Gonguanoland... aptly named because there was an incredible amount of bird shit on the route. This is all second hand info from (uncle) Tom Pulaski who did the FA although his memory of the '70s is a little... foggy.

By phil broscovak
Apr 8, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Adam you are right it was Pulaski and Newberry. Tell your uncle I am trying to reach him. And by the way he's always been a little foggy. Ha ha.