Joshua Tree Finger Cracks

I searched the forums and didn't see a thread like this so here goes...

I've been to Joshua Tree several times but have mostly found slabs and hand cracks in the moderate grades. I since moved to Oregon and have fallen in love with the basalt splitter finger cracks up there. So, for my upcoming trip to Josh, I would love to test myself on some finger cracks in the 5.8-5.10+ range. Any advice?

Thanks!

I can suggest some amazing finger racks north if j-tree.

Tax Man is what you seek....

sphincter quits-.9+ pg
semi tough-.10+
martin quits-.10
whats it to you-.10+ pg-13
perfect fingers-.10-
looney tunes-.9

theres a few to get ya started, the first four are all in the real hidden valley

My first two finger cracks were:

Tossed Green
Right Baskerville Crack

Over at Hound Rock/Baskerville Rock in the Quail Springs area.

Both are 5.10a, Tossed Green was a little bit harder for me. They have a variety of sizes, but I remember the meat of each climb being fingers. Nice setting, good pro, and a perfect introduction to finger cracks.

Rubicon! Sustained fingers splitting a cool tombstone like rock. Easily one of the best routes in J-Tree.

+1 for Rubicon. While over there in Split Rocks, make sure to do Bird of Fire as well.

Here are some to get you going:

Uncle Fester: 10+, splitter tips to fingers. Low crux, protects well.

Wedlock: 11a (soft for 5.11, wouldn't argue with 10d). Fantastic. Unexplicably gets no stars in the older guidebooks. Splitter fingers to a cool giant chockstone belay.

Rubicon: 10c. Wide hands to an arching, mostly fingers crack. Great rock, great pro, great climbing.

Martin Quits: 10c. Reachy, but bomber fingers, easing after the initial 10' or so. Short, but most stuff in JT is.

Exorcist: 10a. Splitter fingers to a one move bolted face crux

Perfect Fingers: 10-. Splitter mostly fingers to a flare.

Cut Thin to Win: 10c (soft, probably 10a/b). Splitter fingers on a slabby wall with a few helpful face holds.

Touch and Go: 9. Cool double finger cracks for the first half.

Bird of Fire: 10a. Fingers to hands. A little sporty getting to the first protection. Do before or after Wedlock, it's right around the corner.

Rubicon.... for sure.

The Left Mell crack. EDIT: The Right Mel... Oh heck... you do the hike, do both.

Baskerville EDIT: The Right one.

Wantaknobe Wall (sp???)

Wanger Banger .... rattley fingers for me... just the wrong size, makes it very cool.

EDIT: To add, Working Overtime.  9

same formation as Women's work never done.

Have fun

+1 for Rubicon. Super sweet pitch.

Rubicon is nice but someone has to mention

Equinox

r.c

Equinox is one of the best finger splitters I've ever encountered. Worth the drive and hike to throw a TR on it, at least.

Sail Away
Rubicon
tax man
maybe even illusion dweller

Another vote for Illusion Dweller. Enough finger jams on that and super classic.

Equinoz is definitely on my list but a good bit harder than the up to 10+ the OP was asking about.

Guy Keesee wrote: The Left Mell crack. Baskerville Wantaknobe Wall (sp???) Wanger Banger .... rattley fingers for me... just the wrong size, makes it very cool. Have fun

Left Mel isn't a fingercrack (neither is right Mel). Right Mel (which is actually the crack on the left) has a single tips move off the ground to face climbing.

R Baskerville, also doesn't really climb like a fingercrack.

Wangerbanger...only fingers are at the very top coming out of the second pod, and the route is a full number harder than the OP asked for.

Wataknobe...also not a fingercrack. The business is a single rattley or flaring fist move about 10' off the ground to low angle easy rambling.

I know you've spent tons of time out here Guy, but your list leaves a little to be desired. And for people putting Equinox on there....when did 12c become 10+? Might as well add Vector, Asteroid Crack, and Stingray if you're going to ignore the stated difficulty range.

A Woman's Work Is Never Done, goes from tight hands to tips, 5.10b.

Will... so I stand corrected. sorry.

My brain is a butt fuzzed, after all Josh Climbs just get sort of blurry cause most are sort of the same.

But I do recall walking away from all the climbs I listed, with bloody, sore fingers.

Cheers, and happy climbing 2 You

EDIT: fuzzy memory, so I pulled out GB and notes, edited some for clarity, the climbs I recommended are all good .... maybe the finger sections are short... but worthwhile. And most never have lines.

And to the OP.... enjoy yourself Josh is way different from most places to climb. I quit going regulary about 15 years ago cause of the Nazi NPS .....the place has changed for the worse but still pretty special.

And... I think you should try Wanger Banger.... if you can climb those slick, continuous, long cracks, you will most likely be able to send it, cause it's short and sweet.

Ok Will; Vector!

Check out Heart of Darkness. Shouldn't be missed.
mountainproject.com/v/heart…

Yeah man, gotta respect that op....

I think Rubicon is the best that has been mentioned that I've been on as far as the "fingercrack" aspect is concerned. Sustained, solid finger locks. Sail Away has a few and is good for the grade. Both are really popular. But yeah, most "fingercracks" are going to be at least 5.10 so that's why everyone is posting hard stuff I'd say (not sure where the nonfngercracks came from). They're just so good it's easy to do!

I remember Popular Mechanics had a couple really nice fingerlocks in the corner. It's 5.9 and a great route regardless.

The upper section of Colorado Crack has fun fingers. One of the few <5.10 options.