Jorgie's is the very chalked up arching thin crack in between Swallow Crack and Ordeal, some ways down the right side of the Disco Wall. It takes relatively good gear, and packs in some great climbing in its relatively short length. The crux comes as the crack begins to peter out, with a tenuous, off-balance move left.
Thin to medium gear. Two-bolt anchor
|Comments on Jorgie's Crack
|By daniel c|
From: San Francisco, CA
Oct 10, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
Goes 5.9 in the book, a rating that I agree with. Bring nuts and small cams. Piton about two thirds of the way-up helps. Sustained. A great climb but can be greasy from traffic
|By aaron hope|
From: Walnut Creek, CA
Aug 10, 2010
I used holds on the sides and stemmed around the crack to pull myself up, rest, and place gear...made it feel much easier than 10a. Maybe it's 5.9/10a if you only use the crack? Fun climb, either way.
Apr 27, 2011
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
Fun, but short. 5.9 at most if you use the face holds.
|By Keith Forest|
Nov 26, 2011
The arete just to the left of Jorgie's Crack goes free at 5.11. Top rope using Jorgie's Crack anchors. Exciting.