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Jorgie's Crack 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Barry Bates, Dave Hampton FFA 12/70
Page Views: 1,281
Submitted By: Ian Walters on Jan 1, 2009
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BETA PHOTO: Climber is on Jorgie's Crack; Swallow Cr...
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Description 

Jorgie's is the very chalked up arching thin crack in between Swallow Crack and Ordeal, some ways down the right side of the Disco Wall. It takes relatively good gear, and packs in some great climbing in its relatively short length. The crux comes as the crack begins to peter out, with a tenuous, off-balance move left.


Protection 

Thin to medium gear. Two-bolt anchor



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By daniel c
From: San Francisco, CA
Oct 10, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Goes 5.9 in the book, a rating that I agree with. Bring nuts and small cams. Piton about two thirds of the way-up helps. Sustained. A great climb but can be greasy from traffic

By aaron hope
From: Walnut Creek, CA
Aug 10, 2010

I used holds on the sides and stemmed around the crack to pull myself up, rest, and place gear...made it feel much easier than 10a. Maybe it's 5.9/10a if you only use the crack? Fun climb, either way.

By Randy
Apr 27, 2011
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Fun, but short. 5.9 at most if you use the face holds.

By Keith Forest
Nov 26, 2011

The arete just to the left of Jorgie's Crack goes free at 5.11. Top rope using Jorgie's Crack anchors. Exciting.