A very sustained mostly fingers corner. From stemming, to laybacking, to jamming, to chimneying, this climb will make you do it all. First make your way over three almost identical roofs to gain a good rest. Then crank into a sustained crux, stemming when possible to reach a short pod. Finally layback out the nicely exposed corner roof.
Climb starts just right from where the trail meets the wall. It's the obvious left-facing fingers corner.
Friends-(2).4, (2).5, (10).75, (8)1.0, One each (camalots) #.75, #1, #2, #3
Apr 1, 2014
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a
I believe this route and Tenderloins were both put up by Steve Hong, and I thought it was interesting that the plaque at the base of this route reads, "11+/12-" and the one under Tenderloins gets a flat "11+" which is the opposite of current consensus (Tenderloins is the harder route). Hong must have had some large fingers.