Jolt 5.10b
| 7,587 page views
Good page?   |
| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch |
| Consensus: | 5.10- [details] |
| FA: | Joel O'Connell 1988 |
| Submitted By: | lee hansche on Mar 15, 2007 |
| |
BETA PHOTO: Jolt.
Add Photo  Printer View
Description DO NOT CLIMB JOLT. DUE TO ROCKFALL IT IS UNSAFE AND/OR NON EXISTENT.
Many call this the best 5.10 at Rumney. Wildly-exposed climbing interesting fun moves on good holds, it would be hard to find anything negative to say about this climb. Its main feature is a crazy rock fin jutting out 80 feet above the ground you will learn to love this feature or you will find yourself catching big air.
Starting on less-interesting, moderate moves you will eventually gain a stance looking up at the business, which is the last 50 feet of the climb. Follow the bolts heading up and right on crimps and underclings until you are following the very edge of the rock fin. At this point, you will be forced to smear on small foot holds right on the edge of the flake with nothing under you for what seems to be a long, long way. A few, less-exposed moves on crimps lead to the top and a nice ledge to sit on and take in the view.
Location From the approach trail after climbing over the big log, head down and left to the low point of the crag, the fin will be above you. Jolt is the far left bolt line at this section starting just above a flat boulder forming a slab at the base of the cliff.
Warning! Do not hang out on the flat spot underneath this route and Dolt. You are in the death zone! The whole fin is exfoliating and rotting and dropping pieces, sometimes big pieces that can easily kill you. Warn others and wear a helmet while belaying. Wait your turn well off to the side. Seriously!
Protection 11 bolts + 2 quick clips. 60m rope needed!!!
Me rappelling of jolt as Shep looks on.
|
Jolt is just a little exposed.
|
starting the exposed part of the climb
|
Autumn at Hinterlands
|
jakob high up on jolt
|
love the exposure in these shots!
|
just for fun... otey onsighting, and my feet makin...
|
Charlie grabbing the jug weirdly.
|
Tim at the top.
|
Top of Jolt on 5-18-2013 taken at roughly the same...
|
The fin of Jolt/Dolt. Taken April 2011
|
Me climbing Jolt
|
Working my way up the flake
| | |
By Peter Jackson
From: Rumney, NH
May 14, 2013
CONDITION REPORT | Edit: The RCA is reporting that Jolt lost its anchors yesterday and that serious rockfall has occurred. Be careful up there, and wear your helmet! |
By BrianWinslow
From: Concord, NH
Aug 22, 2007
| I would certainly call this a four star route, however the bottom of the route is a little bit dirty with some small but loose rocks on a lower ledge. Be careful pulling your rope as I've pulled down more than I wanted to. |
By Spiro
May 26, 2008
| Great route, do it! |
By BTodd
May 26, 2008
| I agree with Spiro |
By NicoleKurth
From: Londonderry, NH
Jun 11, 2008
rating: 5.10b
| so the last time i climbed this i needed 12 or so quick draws plus the anchors... did they add bolts? |
By rdlennon
From: New Hampshire
Oct 6, 2008
rating: 5.9
| Yeah, beware: I'm sure there are more than 10 bolts. Also, the 'crimps' mentioned in the description are generally more like finger jugs or big, positive crimps. Either way, the holds are very good and forgiving on this climb, so don't let anything scare you off. Do it. Classic. |
By Dana Bartlett
From: CT
Oct 23, 2008
| What did I miss on this route? Seriously, it seemed no harder than 5.8 |
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Oct 23, 2008
| the route has seen some broken holds so maybe it got easier... it was always soft for 10b anyway... that would be funny if it went all the way down to 5.8... |
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Apr 20, 2010
| I climbed this one on trad gear today just for fun... i recommend you keep clipping those bolts unless you like adventure :) the loose rock seems looser when placing gear behind it haha... |
By GarrettM
From: bedford, nh
May 17, 2010
| fantastic climb. the underling sequence on edge of the fin is unreal. I actually thought dolt was a little bit harder and a little headier. |
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
May 20, 2010
| i have to get back on dolt... back when i did it it felt like standard 5.9 climbing... but i remember many loose holds, perhaps some of them fell off making it harder... |
By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Aug 12, 2010
rating: 5.10a
| 5.9/10a seems about right...though maybe only 10a if you are trying to avoid using hollow (copiously chalked) jugs.
I know I'm gonna take a bath for this, but I gotta say, I thought this route was mediocre at best. It has a few nice moves, and yes, the exposed fin is indeed a cool feature, but I thought the route was greatly marred by a lot of loose rock. In addition, the chossy, dirty ledge took away from the continuity of the climb. I probably wouldn't stop to do the route again. |
By SmithBro
Feb 28, 2011
rating: 5.10a
| Originaly 10d. We might be remembering climbing it with 3 bolts. Felt 10d then, feels 10a now. Some long runners/draws helpfull. |
By S. Neoh
Jun 20, 2011
rating: 5.10a
| Did the "new" start for the first time today. It is a nice long route now. Exposure is spectacular and getting to the top is now a lot less stressful than back in the day (as a mixed route with cam in flaring crack). To keep rope drag manageable, put a shoulder-length sling on the fourth bolt, a long draw on the fifth, and a LONG draw on the last.
Not as high in quality as Underdog, IMHO. |
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jan 17, 2012
| For repeat ascents, there may be better routes move wise (I actually like climbing Dolt better), but for an onsight the exposed feature is great and shouldn't be missed. |
By tgsmith
May 10, 2012
| Can this be rapped with 60m rope? |
By S. Neoh
May 10, 2012
rating: 5.10a
| Yes, 60m. Regardless, please knot the ends of the rope to be safe. |
By Kelsey Stavseth
Apr 28, 2013
| Just a reminder, Jolt has loose rock! A piece broke under foot just under the anchors yesterday and landed near a crowd of people. Always wear a helmet when belaying! |
|
RSS Feed
1 more...
Slideshow
